The best wood for outdoor planters balances durability against weather and pests with ease of use and aesthetic appeal. For beginners, cedar and redwood are excellent choices due to their natural rot and insect resistance, making them long-lasting and low-maintenance options for beautiful, functional planters.
Welcome, fellow garden lovers! Building your own planters is a super rewarding project, letting you add a personal touch to your garden or patio. But choosing the right wood can feel a bit overwhelming, right? You want something that looks great, lasts a long time, and won’t break the bank. The good news is, with a little guidance, you can pick the perfect wood that will have your plants thriving for seasons to come. We’ll walk through the easiest and most effective choices, so you can get started on your planter project with confidence. Let’s dig in!
Why Wood is a Wonderful Choice for Planters
Wood offers a natural beauty that plastic or metal can’t quite replicate. It blends seamlessly into garden landscapes, providing a warm, inviting look. Beyond aesthetics, wood has fantastic insulating properties, protecting plant roots from extreme temperature fluctuations – a real bonus for your green pals! Plus, building with wood is a fantastic DIY project that can be scaled to any skill level. It’s a chance to create something truly unique for your specific gardening needs.
Understanding Wood’s Enemies: What Your Planter Wood Needs to Resist
For a planter that stands the test of time, the wood needs to be tough against a few common foes:
Moisture and Rot: Your planter will be in constant contact with damp soil and exposed to rain. This is the number one enemy of wood, leading to decay and weakening over time.
Insects: Termites and other wood-boring insects can turn a beautiful planter into a crumbling mess from the inside out.
Sun and Weather: Intense sun can dry out and crack wood, while freezing and thawing cycles can also cause damage.
The Top Contenders: Best Wood for Outdoor Planters
When selecting wood for outdoor planters, the goal is to find a material that naturally resists the elements. Here are our proven choices that offer the best combination of durability, beauty, and workability for beginners.
1. Cedar: The Natural Warrior
Cedar is often hailed as the gold standard for outdoor wood projects, and for good reason! It’s a softwood, which makes it easier to cut and work with than hardwoods, yet it packs a powerful punch against decay and insects.
Why it’s great: Cedar contains natural oils and tannins that act as preservatives, making it highly resistant to rot, decay, and insect infestation. This means your cedar planter will last for many years without needing harsh chemical treatments. It’s also lightweight, making it easier to move your planters if needed.
Appearance: Cedar has a beautiful, warm reddish-brown color that ages gracefully to a silvery-grey if left untreated. Its fine grain is visually appealing, adding a natural elegance to any garden space.
Workability: Cedar is relatively soft and easy to cut, drill, and assemble. This makes it very beginner-friendly for DIY projects.
Considerations: While more affordable than some hardwoods, cedar can be pricier than pine. However, its longevity often makes it a cost-effective choice in the long run. Always look for Western Red Cedar, known for its superior durability.
Table: Cedar vs. Other Popular Outdoor Woods
| Wood Type | Natural Rot Resistance | Insect Resistance | Durability | Cost (Relative) | Ease of Workability | Beginner Friendly |
| :————- | :——————— | :—————- | :———— | :————– | :—————— | :—————- |
| Cedar | Excellent | Excellent | Very Good | Moderate | Easy | Yes |
| Redwood | Excellent | Excellent | Very Good | Moderate-High | Easy | Yes |
| Teak | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent | Very High | Moderate | Moderate |
| Pressure-Treated Pine | Good | Good (treated) | Good | Low-Moderate | Easy | Yes |
| Douglas Fir | Fair | Fair | Fair-Good | Moderate | Easy | Yes |
2. Redwood: The Elegant Protector
Similar to cedar, redwood is a fantastic choice for outdoor planters because of its inherent resistance to decay and insects. Its rich, deep color adds a luxurious touch to any garden.
Why it’s great: Redwood wood naturally contains compounds that deter rot and insects, much like cedar. This natural defense system ensures your planters will stand up to the elements for a long time.
Appearance: Redwood boasts a stunning deep reddish-brown hue that is highly sought after. It ages to a beautiful silvery-grey over time, maintaining its classic appeal.
Workability: It’s a softwood, so it’s easy to cut, sand, and assemble. This makes it a great option for DIYers.
Considerations: Redwood can be a bit more expensive than cedar, and its availability can vary depending on your region. Always look for heartwood grades for maximum durability.
3. Cypress: The Southern Charm
Cypress is a beautiful, durable wood that is particularly well-suited for moist environments. It’s a popular choice in Southern gardens due to its excellent rot and insect resistance.
Why it’s great: Cypress has a high density and contains cypressene and thujopsene, natural extractives that make it resistant to decay and insect attack. It’s especially known for its ability to withstand moisture.
Appearance: Cypress has a pale yellow to light brown color with a prominent grain pattern. It can have knots that add character. It weathers to a silvery-grey.
Workability: It’s a moderately hard wood, making it a bit harder to work with than cedar or redwood but still manageable for DIYers with basic tools.
Considerations: Availability can be regional, and it’s generally more expensive than pine.
4. Pressure-Treated Pine: The Budget-Friendly Workhorse
If budget is a significant concern, pressure-treated pine can be a viable option. It’s readily available and significantly more resistant to rot and insects than untreated pine.
Why it’s great: The wood is treated with chemicals in a high-pressure process that forces preservatives deep into the wood fibers. This treatment makes it resistant to rot, fungi, and insects.
Appearance: Pressure-treated pine typically has a greenish tint when new, though it fades to a greyish-brown over time. It has a more uniform, less visually striking grain than natural hardwoods.
Workability: It’s easy to cut and work with, similar to regular pine.
Considerations: While effective, some gardeners prefer to avoid pressure-treated wood because of the chemicals used, especially if growing edibles. Ensure you use untreated soil or a liner inside planters made from pressure-treated wood if you’re concerned. Also, always wear a mask and gloves when cutting treated lumber, and dispose of scraps properly according to local regulations. Look for treatments rated for ground contact for maximum longevity.
Woods to Approach with Caution (or Avoid) for Beginners
Some woods might seem like good ideas, but they come with significant drawbacks for outdoor planters, especially for beginners.
Untreated Pine/Fir: These are very inexpensive but have almost no natural resistance to rot or insects. Without regular sealing and maintenance, they will decay quickly outdoors, often within a year or two.
Plywood: While seemingly versatile, plywood delaminates (layers separate) when exposed to moisture and weather. It’s generally not suitable for direct outdoor exposure unless it’s a marine-grade plywood, which is expensive.
Softwoods without Natural Resistance: Woods like spruce or fir that aren’t naturally prone to rot will require constant sealing and maintenance, which can be a bother for a planter that’s in constant contact with soil.
Essential Steps for Building Your Wood Planter
Ready to get your hands dirty? Here’s a simple breakdown of how to build a basic wooden planter. We’ll focus on a straightforward box design, which is perfect for beginners.
Materials You’ll Need:
Your chosen wood (cedar, redwood, or pressure-treated pine are great starts)
Exterior-grade wood screws (stainless steel or coated)
Wood glue (exterior grade)
Sandpaper (medium and fine grit)
Optional: Landscape fabric or pond liner for drainage and soil containment
Optional: Exterior wood sealant or stain (if you want to protect the wood further or alter its color)
Tools You’ll Need:
Measuring tape
Pencil
Saw (hand saw or circular saw)
Drill with drill bits and screwdriver bits
Safety glasses and work gloves
Optional: Clamps, a square, and a router (for cleaner edges)
Step-by-Step Guide:
1. Design & Measure: Decide on the size and shape of your planter. A simple rectangular box is easiest – for example, 2 feet long, 1 foot wide, and 1 foot deep.
2. Cut Your Wood: Measure and cut your lumber according to your design. For our 2x1x1 foot planter, you’d need:
Four pieces for the long sides (e.g., 24 inches each)
Four pieces for the short sides (e.g., 12 inches each)
One optional piece for a bottom frame if you’re not attaching directly to the ground, or you can construct a slatted bottom.
Pro Tip: Cut your corner posts slightly longer if you want them to extend below the planter for stability.
3. Assemble the Sides:
Take two long side pieces and two short side pieces to form one rectangular frame.
Apply a bead of exterior wood glue along the edges where the boards will meet.
Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting, especially near the ends.
Use your exterior-grade wood screws to join the boards. For a sturdy box, you’ll screw through the face of one board into the end-grain of another.
Use a square to ensure your corners are 90 degrees.
Repeat for the opposite side.
4. Join the Sides Together:
Now, you have two rectangular frames. Stand them up on edge.
Apply wood glue to the ends of the short side pieces.
Bring the two frames together to form the box.
Pre-drill and screw through the long side pieces into the ends of the short side pieces to complete the box. Ensure everything stays square.
5. Add a Bottom (Optional but Recommended):
If you’re not placing the planter directly on the soil, you’ll need a bottom. You can create a simple frame from shorter pieces of wood and then attach slats of wood across it, leaving small gaps for drainage.
Alternatively, you can simply create a base from several planks.
Attach the bottom securely with screws.
6. Prepare for Drainage:
This is crucial! Drill several 1/2-inch to 1-inch holes in the bottom of your planter for water to escape. If you’ve built a slatted bottom, the gaps will serve this purpose.
If you’re using a solid bottom without gaps, drill plenty of drainage holes.
7. Sand and Finish:
Sand down any rough edges or splinters.
If you plan to use a sealant or stain, now is the time. Apply it according to the product’s instructions. For edibles, opt for food-safe finishes or consider lining the planter.
Important Note on Liners: If you are using potentially treated wood and growing edibles, or if you want to extend the life of your planter, line the inside with heavy-duty landscape fabric or a pond liner. Cut it to fit the inside walls and staple it in place, ensuring it doesn’t block the drainage holes.
8. Position and Plant!
Place your new planter in its desired location.
Add a layer of gravel at the bottom for even better drainage, then fill with your potting mix, and get planting!
Enhancing Longevity: Caring for Your Wooden Planter
Even the best wood benefits from a little TLC to maximize its lifespan.
Drainage is Key: Make sure those drainage holes are clear! Waterlogged soil is detrimental to both your plants and the wood.
Elevate Slightly: Whenever possible, place planters on feet or blocks to allow air circulation underneath and prevent direct contact with damp surfaces. This is especially important on patios or decks.
Seasonal Cleaning: At the end of the growing season, clear out old soil. You can gently scrub the planter with a mild soap and water solution to remove any algae or mildew.
Sealing and Staining: If your wood isn’t naturally rot-resistant, or if you want to preserve the color of rot-resistant woods like cedar or redwood, consider applying an exterior-grade sealant or stain. Look for products that are eco-friendly. Reapply every 1-3 years, depending on the product and your climate. For edible gardens, ensure any finish used is plant-safe. You can learn more about sustainable garden materials from resources like the US Environmental Protection Agency’s greener choices guide.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What is the absolute cheapest wood I can use and still have a planter last a year or two?
Untreated pine or fir are the cheapest upfront. However, they will likely only last 1-2 years outdoors without heavy maintenance and sealing. Pressure-treated pine is a more durable, slightly more expensive option that will last considerably longer.
Q2: Do I need to seal cedar or redwood planters?
No, you don’t have to seal cedar or redwood, as they have natural resistance. However, sealing them can help maintain their color (preventing them from turning grey) and can add an extra layer of protection, potentially extending their life even further.
Q3: How can I make my wooden planter last longer?
Ensure excellent drainage by drilling plenty of holes, elevate the planter slightly to allow airflow underneath, and consider lining the interior with landscape fabric or pond liner. Applying an exterior-grade sealant or stain periodically also helps.
Q4: Is it safe to grow vegetables in planters made from pressure-treated wood?
For edible gardens, it’s generally safer to use untreated wood or naturally rot-resistant woods like cedar or redwood. If you opt for pressure-treated wood, it is highly recommended to line the inside of the planter with a food-grade plastic liner or heavy-duty landscape fabric to create a barrier between the treated wood and the soil.
Q5: What’s the difference between cedar and redwood for planters?
Both are excellent choices with similar natural resistances. Redwood is known for its beautiful deep red color and slightly higher cost. Cedar is often more readily available and easier to find, with a warm reddish-brown hue that weathers to grey. Their workability is very similar.
Q6: Can I use pallet wood for my outdoor planter?
Pallet wood can be a free or very cheap option, but be cautious. Not all pallet wood is treated safely, and its durability outdoors can vary wildly. Ensure any pallet wood you use is stamped with “HT” (Heat Treated), not “MB” (Methyl Bromide), and be aware that untreated pallet wood will not last long against the elements.
Q7: How deep should the drainage holes be?
Drainage holes should ideally be between 1/2 inch and 1 inch in diameter. The more holes you can make, the better the drainage. Spacing them about 4-6 inches apart across the bottom is a good rule of thumb.
Conclusion: Your Beautiful, Long-Lasting Planter Awaits!
Choosing the best wood for your outdoor planter doesn’t have to be complicated. By understanding the benefits of woods like cedar and redwood, you’re setting yourself up for a beautiful and long-lasting garden feature. These natural allies in the fight against rot and insects make the building process simpler and the enjoyment longer. Whether you opt for the tried-and-true cedar, the elegant redwood, or a budget-friendly pressure-treated pine with a liner, the act of building your own planter is a rewarding step towards a greener, more personalized outdoor space. So gather your materials, take your time, and get ready to enjoy the fruits (and flowers!) of your labor in planters you built yourself. Happy gardening!
