How To Care For A Succulent Plant Indoors: Essential Guide

Succulent care indoors is simple! Provide bright light (6+ hours daily), well-draining soil and pots, and water only when the soil is completely dry. Avoid overwatering, which is the most common killer of these resilient plants. With these essentials, your indoor succulents will thrive.

Welcome, fellow plant lovers! Are you drawn to those adorable, low-maintenance succulents but a little nervous about keeping them happy indoors? You’re not alone! These little green wonders seem so forgiving, yet sometimes they can be a bit… dramatic. You might worry about giving them too much water, not enough light, or what kind of soil they even like. It’s a common puzzle, but I promise it’s easier than you think! With a few simple tricks, you can transform your space into a thriving succulent haven. Let’s dive in and unlock the secrets to happy, healthy indoor succulents!

Table of Contents

Your Succulent’s Dreamy Indoor Environment: Light & Location

The first thing your succulent craves is sunshine! Think of them as tiny sunbathers. They store water in their leaves, stems, and roots, which means they’re adapted to arid environments where they get plenty of light throughout the day. For indoor care, this translates to finding the brightest spot in your home.

How much light is enough?

Aim for at least 6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day.
A south-facing window is often ideal, as it receives the most intense light.
East or west-facing windows can also work, but you might need to monitor your plant more closely.
If you don’t have a sunny window, don’t despair! Keep reading – grow lights are a fantastic option.

Signs your succulent isn’t getting enough light:

Etiolation: This is when the plant stretches out, becoming leggy and pale as it searches for light. The spaces between the leaves get longer and longer.
Loss of color: Many succulents have vibrant colors. If yours is turning a dull green and losing its blush, it’s likely craving more sun.
Leaning: A plant that is constantly leaning in one direction is reaching for the nearest light source.

Conversely, direct, harsh afternoon sun through a window can sometimes scorch sensitive succulents, especially if they’re not acclimatized. Keep an eye out for brown or bleached spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can help diffuse intense rays if needed.

The Golden Rule of Watering: Less is More!

This is, without a doubt, the most crucial aspect of succulent care indoors. Overwatering is the swift and sad end for many succulent enthusiasts’ dreams. These plants are designed to store water, meaning they can go for extended periods without it. Drowning them is therefore the biggest mistake a beginner can make.

When to water:

The Finger Test: Stick your finger about an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If you feel any moisture, wait!
The Skewer Test: Insert a wooden skewer or chopstick into the soil. If it comes out clean with no soil clinging to it, the soil is dry. If there’s damp soil attached, it’s still wet.
Observe your succulent: Leaves might start to look a little less plump, or the soil might pull away from the sides of the pot when it’s truly thirsty.

How to water:

Thoroughly: When you do water, water deeply until water drains from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This encourages roots to grow deeper and healthier.
Avoid Misting Heads-on: While some people mist, it’s generally not recommended. Misting can leave water sitting on the leaves, which can lead to rot or encourage pests. If you must mist for humidity (rarely needed for most succulents), do it very lightly on a warm, dry day.
Water the Soil: Aim to water the soil directly, not the leaves.

How often to water: This varies greatly depending on your home’s temperature, humidity, the type of succulent, pot size, and soil type. In warmer months, you might water every 1-3 weeks. In cooler, dimmer months, you might water as little as once a month, or even less. It’s always better to err on the side of underwatering.

The Perfect Potting Mix: Drainage is Key!

Succulents absolutely loathe sitting in soggy soil. Their roots need to breathe and dry out between waterings. Standard potting soil often retains too much moisture, which is a recipe for root rot. You need a mix that drains quickly.

What to look for in succulent soil:

Gritty components: This includes things like perlite, pumice, coarse sand, or small gravel.
Aeration: The mix should be airy and allow water to pass through easily.

DIY Your Own Blend: Most succulent growers make their own mix for the best results. A simple and highly effective recipe is:

1 part regular potting soil (organic is great!)
1 part coarse sand (horticultural or builder’s sand, not play sand)
1 part perlite or pumice

Mix these together thoroughly. This gritty mix will ensure that excess water drains away swiftly, keeping your succulent’s roots happy and healthy.

Pre-made succulent/cactus mixes are available: While convenient, many commercial mixes still hold a bit too much moisture for some succulents. You can significantly improve a store-bought mix by adding extra perlite or pumice to it.

According to the Royal Horticultural Society, a good soil structure is vital for promoting healthy root development and preventing waterlogging, which is precisely what succulents need.

Choosing the Right Pot for Your Potted Pal

Just as important as the soil is the pot it lives in. Think of it as the succulent’s home – it needs to be comfortable and functional!

Drainage Holes are Non-Negotiable: This is the absolute #1 requirement for any pot you choose for a succulent. If a pot doesn’t have drainage holes, you must either drill them yourself or avoid using it for your succulent. Water that can’t escape will sit at the bottom, leading to root rot.

Material Matters:

Terracotta (Unglazed Clay): These pots are porous, meaning they “breathe.” This allows moisture to evaporate from the sides of the pot, helping the soil dry out faster. They are fantastic for succulents, especially if you tend to be a bit heavy-handed with the watering can.
Ceramic/Glazed Pots: These pots look lovely but are less breathable than terracotta. They retain moisture longer, so you’ll need to be extra cautious about watering and ensure excellent drainage.
Plastic Pots: Lightweight and inexpensive, plastic pots retain moisture. They can be suitable, but you’ll need to be extra diligent about watering and consider adding more perlite to your soil mix.

Size Guidelines: Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the succulent’s root ball, usually about 1-2 inches wider. A pot that is too large can hold too much soil, which can stay wet for too long. A pot that is too small can stunt growth. You’ll often need to repot succulents every 1-2 years into slightly larger containers as they grow.

Feeding Your Succulents: A Light Touch

Unlike many houseplants that put on a lot of leafy growth, succulents are slow growers. As such, they don’t need a lot of fertilizer. In fact, feeding them too much can cause them to grow too quickly and weaken their structure, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases.

When to feed:

The best time to fertilize is during their active growing season, which for most succulents is spring and summer.
Avoid fertilizing during their dormant period (usually fall and winter) or when the plant is stressed (e.g., recently repotted, wilting).

What to use:

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half or even quarter strength. Look for a fertilizer with lower nitrogen content.
A fertilizer specifically formulated for succulents or cacti is ideal.

How often: Once or twice during the entire growing season is usually plenty. Some growers opt to never fertilize and still have beautiful, healthy plants if they are repotted every couple of years with fresh soil. Less is more here too!

Temperature & Humidity: What’s Comfy for Succulents?

Succulents are remarkably adaptable to different temperatures. They are generally hardy plants that can tolerate quite a bit of variation.

Ideal Temperatures:

Most succulents thrive in average room temperatures, somewhere between 60°F and 80°F (15°C to 27°C).
They can often tolerate cooler temperatures, some even dipping down to 40°F (4°C) for short periods, especially if kept dry.
Avoid placing them near drafts from heating or air conditioning vents, as rapid temperature fluctuations can stress them.

Humidity Levels:

This is where indoor environments can sometimes be a challenge, but succulents are generally quite forgiving. They prefer dry air, which is why they do so well in many homes. In fact, most homes don’t have high enough humidity to bother a succulent. If you live in a very humid climate or have particularly high indoor humidity (e.g., in a bathroom that’s always steamy), ensure excellent air circulation around your plants. Good airflow helps prevent fungal issues.

Pest Patrol: Keeping Your Succulents Safe

While relatively resilient, even succulents can fall victim to common household pests. The most frequent culprits are:

Mealybugs: These look like small, white, cottony masses, often found tucked into the crevices of leaves or at the base of the plant. They suck the sap from the plant.
Spider Mites: Tiny, almost invisible pests that can cause stippling (tiny dots) on the leaves and sometimes create fine webbing. They thrive in dry conditions, ironically.
Scale: These look like small, hard, brown or tan bumps on the leaves and stems. They also feed on plant sap.

Early detection is key! Regularly inspect your succulents, especially the undersides of leaves and where leaves meet stems.

Treatment strategies:

Isolate: If you spot pests, immediately move the affected plant away from others to prevent spreading.
Manual Removal: For small infestations, you can often pick off pests with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol). The alcohol will instantly kill the pests on contact.
Washing: A gentle spray of water can dislodge some pests. Follow up with a treatment.
Insecticidal Soap or Neem Oil: These are effective organic options. Follow the product instructions carefully, and test on a small part of the plant first. Ensure good airflow and avoid direct sunlight immediately after application. For more details on pest management, resources like the University of Illinois Extension’s Houseplant Pests guide offer comprehensive advice.

Common Succulent Problems & How to Solve Them

Even with the best intentions, you might encounter a hiccup. Here’s how to troubleshoot:

Problem	Cause	Solution
Mushy, yellowing leaves	Overwatering, poor drainage	Allow soil to dry out completely. If severe, repot in fresh, well-draining soil. Reduce watering frequency. Ensure pot has drainage.
Wrinkled, dry leaves	Underwatering, too much direct hot sun, rootbound	Water thoroughly. Move to a spot with less intense direct sun. Check if the plant needs repotting.
Stretching (etiolation)	Not enough light	Move to a brighter location. Consider using a grow light. You can propagate the stretched tops.
Brown/black spots on leaves	Sunburn (if starting brown/crispy) or rot (if soft/mushy)	If sunburn, move to less direct light. If rot, suspect overwatering and address drainage/watering.
White fuzzy spots	Mealybugs	Treat with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab or insecticidal soap. Isolate the plant.

Repotting Your Succulents: When and How

Succulents don’t need frequent repotting, but it’s an important part of their long-term health.

When to Repot:

Rootbound: When roots are growing tightly in circles around the inside of the pot, or are emerging from drainage holes.
Soil Depletion: If the soil looks old, compacted, or has a lot of salt buildup.
Overgrown Plant: If the succulent has grown significantly larger than its pot.
Signs of Distress: If the plant consistently struggles despite proper care, fresh soil might help.

Typically, you’ll repot every 1-3 years. The best time to repot is during the spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing.

How to Repot:

Gather Supplies: New pot (slightly larger than the old one), fresh succulent/cactus potting mix, gloves (optional), trowel or spoon.
Prepare the New Pot: Add a small layer of your custom succulent mix to the bottom of the new pot.
Remove the Succulent: Gently tip the old pot on its side and ease the succulent out. If it’s stuck, you can run a knife around the inside edge. Avoid pulling the plant out by its leaves or stem.
Inspect Roots: Gently brush away old soil from the roots. Trim any dead, mushy, or blackened roots with clean scissors or pruning shears.
Place in New Pot: Position the succulent in the center of the new pot, ensuring the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim.
Fill with Soil: Add more succulent mix around the roots, filling in any gaps. Gently firm the soil, but don’t pack it down too tightly.
Wait to Water: It’s generally recommended to wait a few days to a week after repotting before watering. This allows any damaged roots to callous over, preventing rot.

Propagating Succulents: Growing Your Collection

One of the most rewarding aspects of succulent care is propagation! It’s incredibly easy to make new plants from existing ones, and it’s a fantastic way to expand your collection or share with friends.

Methods of Propagation:

Leaf Cuttings: Many succulents, especially Echeverias and Sedums, can be propagated from a single leaf. Gently twist a healthy leaf from the stem. Let the cut end of the leaf dry and callous over for a few days to a week. Then, lay the calloused end on top of dry succulent soil. Keep the soil slightly moist (not wet) and provide bright, indirect light. In a few weeks, you should see tiny roots and a new baby plant emerge from the base of the leaf.
Stem Cuttings: For succulents that grow taller or branch out (like Sempervivums or some Crassulas), you can take stem cuttings. Cut a portion of the stem about 2-4 inches long. Remove any lower leaves. Let the cut end callous over for a few days. Once calloused, you can either stick the cutting into dry succulent soil or lay it on top. Water lightly once it shows signs of rooting.
Offsets (Pups): Many succulents produce “pups” or small baby plants that grow at the base of the mother plant. Once an offset has a few leaves and possibly some roots of its own, you can carefully separate it from the mother plant with a clean knife or by gently pulling it away. Let the cut end callous over for a few days before planting it in its own pot of succulent soil.

With propagation, patience is a virtue. Don’t get discouraged if not every cutting takes

Pearl Roach