Can you grow hydrangeas indoors? Yes! With the right light, water, and a little patience, you can enjoy beautiful hydrangea blooms inside your home. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right pot to keeping your plant happy and thriving year-round. Let’s get those gorgeous flowers growing in your living space!
Dreaming of those big, beautiful hydrangea blooms gracing your indoor space? It’s a common wish for gardeners, and you might think hydrangeas are strictly outdoor plants. But guess what? With a little know-how, bringing these showstoppers inside is totally achievable! Many enthusiastic home gardeners get a bit stumped when trying to keep flowering plants happy indoors, and hydrangeas can seem particularly tricky. Don’t fret! I’m here to share my tried-and-true secrets. We’ll walk through each step together, making indoor hydrangea care simple and rewarding. Get ready to transform your home with vibrant colors!
Why Grow Hydrangeas Indoors?
Bringing hydrangeas indoors offers a unique way to enjoy their stunning blooms and lush foliage no matter the season or outdoor weather. Imagine vibrant blues, pinks, or purples brightening up your living room during a gloomy winter day! Indoor hydrangeas are fantastic for adding a splash of natural beauty and color to any room. They can be a focal point on a coffee table, a cheerful addition to a sunny windowsill, or even a living centerpiece for special occasions. Plus, for those with limited outdoor space, like apartment dwellers, they provide a wonderful opportunity to experience the joy of growing these popular flowering shrubs right at home.
Choosing the Right Hydrangea for Indoors
Not all hydrangeas are created equal when it comes to houseplant potential. The most successful indoor varieties are typically those that are naturally smaller and more manageable. These are often referred to as “florist hydrangeas” or “K Lehman hydrangeas.” They are bred for overwintering and forcing into bloom indoors.
Top Indoor Hydrangea Varieties
- Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea): This is the most common type found for indoor growing. Look for compact cultivars that are specifically sold as houseplants.
- ‘Endless Summer’ (and other reblooming varieties): While some of these are bred for outdoors, compact versions or those that have been overwintered can also adapt well to indoor life.
- Dwarf Hydrangeas: Many nurseries offer dwarf versions of popular hydrangea species, which are ideal for container gardening and indoor environments.
When purchasing, look for plants labeled as suitable for indoor forcing or overwintering. These have usually been prepared by nurseries to transition more easily from outdoor field conditions to indoor pot culture.
Essential Care Requirements for Indoor Hydrangeas
Indoor hydrangea care is all about replicating their ideal outdoor conditions as closely as possible within your home. This means paying close attention to light, water, temperature, and humidity. Don’t worry if it sounds like a lot – we’ll break it down into easy steps!
1. Light: The Sunshine Factor
Hydrangeas absolutely love light, but they can be a bit particular about it indoors. Too much direct, scorching sun can scorch their leaves, while too little light means fewer blooms and leggy growth. The sweet spot is bright, indirect light.
- Ideal Placement: A south- or west-facing window is usually best, but if the sun is very intense, you might need to diffuse it with a sheer curtain. An east-facing window can also work, providing morning sun that is less harsh.
- Signs of Too Much Light: Yellowing leaves with brown, crispy edges are a sign of sunburn.
- Signs of Too Little Light: Long, thin stems (leggy growth) and a lack of blooms indicate your plant needs more light.
- Rotation: Turn your hydrangea a quarter turn every week to ensure all sides of the plant receive adequate light and grow evenly.
2. Watering: The Thirst Quencher
This is where many indoor hydrangea growers run into trouble. These plants are thirsty! However, overwatering can be just as detrimental as underwatering. The key is consistency and checking the soil moisture.
- How to Check: Stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it feels moist, wait a bit longer.
- Watering Technique: When you water, water thoroughly until you see water draining from the bottom of the pot. Discard any excess water that collects in the saucer after about 30 minutes. This prevents root rot.
- Water Quality: Hydrangeas can be sensitive to chemicals in tap water. Rainwater or distilled water is ideal. If you must use tap water, let it sit out overnight to allow some of the chlorine to evaporate.
- Signs of Underwatering: Wilting leaves are the most obvious sign. The soil will also feel very dry.
- Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing leaves, a musty smell from the soil, or mushy stems can indicate overwatering.
A general rule of thumb is to water every 1-3 days, depending on the temperature, humidity, and the size of your pot. In warmer conditions or smaller pots, you’ll need to water more frequently.
3. Temperature: Finding the Comfort Zone
Hydrangeas prefer cooler temperatures, much like they would experience in their natural climate. Extreme heat can stress the plant, especially when combined with dry indoor air.
- Ideal Range: Aim for temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C) during the day and a bit cooler, around 50-60°F (10-15°C), at night.
- Avoid Extremes: Keep your hydrangea away from direct heat sources like radiators, fireplaces, and hot air vents. Also, protect it from cold drafts from open doors or windows in winter.
4. Humidity: The Misty Atmosphere
Indoor environments, especially during winter heating seasons, can be very dry. Hydrangeas thrive in more humid conditions. Low humidity can lead to brown leaf edges and wilting.
- Pebble Tray Method: Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water. Place the pot on top of the pebbles, ensuring the bottom of the pot doesn’t sit directly in the water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the plant.
- Misting: You can mist your hydrangea’s leaves with water, but do this in the morning so they have plenty of time to dry before evening. Avoid misting when the plant is in direct sunlight, as water droplets can magnify the light and scorch the leaves.
- Humidifier: For a more consistent solution, consider using a cool-mist humidifier near your plant.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) provides great resources on maintaining healthy indoor air quality, which includes humidity levels. While not specific to hydrangeas, their advice on ventilation and humidity control is universally beneficial for indoor plants.
5. Soil and Potting: The Foundation
The right soil and pot are crucial for healthy root development and good drainage.
- Pot Type: Choose a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they breathe, allowing excess moisture to evaporate, which helps prevent overwatering. Plastic pots retain moisture longer.
- Pot Size: When you first get your hydrangea, it might be in a nursery pot. You’ll likely want to repot it into something slightly larger, about 1-2 inches wider in diameter, to give the roots room to grow.
- Soil Mix: Use a well-draining potting mix. A good quality, peat-based potting soil amended with perlite or vermiculite provides aeration and drainage while retaining some moisture. Avoid using heavy garden soil, which can compact and suffocate the roots.
6. Fertilizing: Feeding Your Blooms
Your indoor hydrangea will need nutrients to produce those beautiful blooms. However, fertilizing indoors requires a gentle touch to avoid overwhelming the plant and its confined root system.
- When to Fertilize: During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your hydrangea every 2-4 weeks. Reduce or stop fertilizing in fall and winter when the plant’s growth slows down significantly.
- Type of Fertilizer: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10). Some gardeners recommend using a bloom-booster fertilizer (higher in phosphorus) when you want to encourage flowering.
- Dilution: Always dilute liquid fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the package. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots.
- Application: Water your plant thoroughly before applying liquid fertilizer to prevent root burn.
Bloom Color: The Magic of pH
One of the most fascinating aspects of hydrangeas is their ability to change bloom color based on the soil’s pH. While this is more commonly discussed for outdoor plants, it can also influence potted varieties, especially if you’re using tap water or amending the soil over time.
Generally:
- Acidic Soil (low pH): Results in blue blooms.
- Alkaline Soil (high pH): Results in pink or red blooms.
- Neutral Soil (pH around 6.0-6.5): Often produces purple or a mix of pink and blue.
To influence color:
- For Blue Blooms: You can add aluminum sulfate to the soil or use fertilizers specifically formulated for acid-loving plants. Using rainwater also helps maintain a more acidic environment.
- For Pink Blooms: Add lime (calcium carbonate) to the soil or use a fertilizer with higher potassium.
It’s important to note that some varieties are genetically predisposed to certain colors and may not change as drastically. Also, be cautious when trying to alter pH, as drastic changes can shock the plant. A soil pH testing kit can help monitor levels. Reputable garden centers often carry hydrangea color-changing additives.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning your indoor hydrangea is essential for maintaining its shape, encouraging new growth, and promoting abundant blooms. The timing and type of pruning depend on which type of hydrangea you have.
Pruning Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
These are the most common indoor types and they bloom on “old wood” (the stems from the previous year). This means they form their flower buds in late summer or early fall.
- When to Prune: Prune immediately after they finish flowering in late summer or early fall. If you prune them in spring, you’ll cut off the developing flower buds.
- What to Prune: Remove any dead, damaged, or weak stems. You can also lightly shape the plant to maintain its size and encourage bushiness. About one-third of the oldest stems can be cut back close to the ground each year to encourage new, vigorous growth.
General Maintenance
- Deadheading: Once blooms are spent, you can carefully remove them. This prevents seed production and allows the plant to channel energy into producing more flowers or preparing for dormancy.
- Leaf Removal: Remove any yellowing, brown, or damaged leaves promptly to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent potential disease issues.
Encouraging Reblooming Indoors
Getting your hydrangea to rebloom indoors can be a bit challenging, as they often need a period of dormancy. However, with consistent care, you can encourage them to produce new flowers.
Key factors for reblooming:
- Consistent Light and Water: Ensure your plant receives adequate bright, indirect light and consistent watering throughout the growing season.
- Fertilizing: Regular feeding during spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer can fuel new growth and flower production.
- Temperature Fluctuations: While they don’t need a harsh winter freeze like outdoor plants, a slight drop in temperature and reduced watering in late fall and winter can sometimes signal dormancy and encourage blooming in spring.
- Pruning: As mentioned, pruning only after flowering on old wood is critical for macrophylla types. For newer varieties bred to bloom on new wood, pruning in early spring can sometimes encourage more blooms. Check your specific variety’s needs.
Can You Take Hydrangeas Outside?
Yes! After their blooming period indoors, or when spring weather becomes reliably mild and frost is no longer a threat (typically after the last frost date in your area), you can transplant your indoor hydrangea outdoors. This can help it recover and prepare for its next indoor season. It also gives it a chance to get more natural light and a broader range of nutrients.
Transitioning Outdoors
- Harden Off: Begin by placing the pot in a sheltered outdoor location (like a shady porch) for a few days, gradually exposing it to more sun. This process, called “hardening off,” prevents shock.
- Planting: You can keep it in its pot or transplant it directly into your garden. If planting in the ground, choose a location with morning sun and afternoon shade.
- Watering: Water regularly, especially during dry spells, until it’s well established.
Overwintering Your Indoor Hydrangea
Successfully overwintering is key to having healthy hydrangeas year after year indoors. This period allows the plant to rest and store energy for the next blooming cycle.
Dormancy Period
Starting in late fall (around October), you can begin to prepare your hydrangea for dormancy.
- Reduce Watering: Gradually decrease the frequency of watering. Let the soil dry out more between waterings.
- Lower Temperature: Move the plant to a cooler location, ideally between 40-50°F (4-10°C). An unheated garage, a cool basement, or a frost-free shed can be suitable.
- Reduce Light: Less light is needed during dormancy. If it’s in a cool but relatively dark spot, that’s fine.
- Leaf Drop: It’s normal for the plant to lose most of its leaves during dormancy.
Waking Up in Spring
Around February or March, depending on your climate and when you want blooms, you can start to wake your hydrangea up.
- Increase Light: Move it back to a location with bright, indirect light.
- Resume Watering: Begin watering more regularly as new growth appears.
- Fertilize: Start feeding with a diluted fertilizer once you see signs of active growth.
- Repotting: This is a good time to repot if the plant has outgrown its current container or the soil is depleted.
For more detailed guidance on plant dormancy, resources from university extension programs like those from Penn State Extension can provide in-depth horticultural information.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with the best care, you might encounter a few issues. Here are some common problems and how to solve them:
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Wilting Leaves | Underwatering, heat stress, transplant shock. | Water thoroughly. Move to a cooler location. Ensure consistent moisture. |
| Yellowing Leaves (with green veins) | Iron deficiency (chlorosis), often caused by alkaline soil; overwatering. | Use a fertilizer with iron chelates or an acidifying agent. Check soil pH. Ensure soil is draining well and not waterlogged. |
| Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges | Low humidity, underwatering, too much direct sun, salt buildup from fertilizer or tap water. | Increase humidity. Water thoroughly. Move away from direct sun. Flush the soil with plain water to remove salt buildup. |
