How to Care for Succulents Indoors: Essential Guide

October 13, 2025 by Pearl Roach

Don’t let your succulents wilt! Learn essential indoor care: provide bright light, water sparingly only when soil is dry, use well-draining pots and soil, and avoid extreme temperatures. This guide makes it simple for beginners.

Struggling to keep your cute little succulents alive and thriving indoors? You’re not alone! Many beginner gardeners find these charming plants a bit mysterious. They look so vibrant and low-maintenance, but sometimes, they seem to have a mind of their own. The good news is, these resilient plants are much easier to care for than you might think. With a few simple tips, you can transform your indoor space with happy, healthy succulents.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from picking the right spot to knowing when they’re thirsty. We’ll break down the essentials into easy-to-follow steps. Get ready to create your own mini succulent oasis!

Table of Contents

Why Indoors? The Appeal of Succulents

Succulents have soared in popularity, and for good reason! Their unique shapes, stunning colors, and compact size make them perfect for any home, no matter how small. They bring a touch of nature indoors, adding life and style to windowsills, desks, and shelves. Plus, many people find the act of tending to them a calming and rewarding hobby. They are wonderfully forgiving, making them ideal for those just starting their gardening journey.

Understanding Succulent Needs

To successfully care for succulents indoors, it’s crucial to understand their basic needs. These desert dwellers are adapted to arid environments, meaning they store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This characteristic shapes their care requirements. Unlike many other houseplants, they thrive on neglect rather than constant attention. The key is to mimic their natural habitat as closely as possible within your home.

Key Elements for Happy Succulents:

Light: Most succulents need plenty of bright, indirect sunlight.
Water: They prefer to dry out completely between waterings.
Soil: Well-draining soil is non-negotiable to prevent root rot.
Potting: Drainage holes are a must!
Temperature: Moderate temperatures are best, avoiding extremes.

Step-by-Step Guide to Indoor Succulent Care

Ready to dive in? Let’s get your succulents set up for success. Follow these simple steps, and you’ll be a succulent whisperer in no time!

Step 1: Choosing the Right Location – Light is Key!

This is arguably the most important factor. Succulents are sun-lovers! Indoors, this means finding the brightest spot you have. The ideal location is a south-facing window, as it receives the most direct sunlight throughout the day. If you don’t have a south-facing window, an east or west-facing window can also work, but you might need to supplement with grow lights, especially during winter months.

Signs your succulent isn’t getting enough light:

Etiolation: The plant stretches and grows tall, with widely spaced leaves. This is the plant reaching for light.
Fading Color: Vibrant colors become dull or green.
Weak Growth: The plant looks leggy and unhealthy.

Signs your succulent is getting too much direct, harsh sun:

Sunburn: Leaves develop brown or white patches, or a bleached appearance.
Crispy or Scorched Leaves: The edges or tips of leaves feel dry and brittle.

Aim for at least 6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. If you’re concerned about harsh afternoon sun through a window, you can use sheer curtains to diffuse the light.

Step 2: The Right Potting Mix – Drainage, Drainage, Drainage!

Standard potting soil holds too much moisture for succulents. They need a mix that allows water to drain quickly and air to reach the roots. You can buy a commercial succulent or cactus mix, or create your own. A good DIY mix often involves combining regular potting soil with gritty materials like perlite or coarse sand.

DIY Succulent Potting Mix Recipe:

2 parts regular potting soil
1 part perlite (or coarse sand)
1 part pumice (optional, but adds extra aeration)

Mix these ingredients thoroughly. This gritty combination mimics the rocky, well-draining terrain succulents encounter in their natural habitats, preventing waterlogged soil that leads to root rot.

Step 3: Choosing the Perfect Pot

The pot is more than just a container; it directly impacts your succulent’s health. The absolute most critical feature is drainage holes! Without them, water has nowhere to escape, leading to soggy soil and deadly root rot. Terracotta pots are often recommended for beginners because they are porous, allowing moisture to evaporate through the sides, which helps the soil dry out faster.

Key Potting Features:

Drainage Holes: Essential for water to escape.
Material: Terracotta is excellent for managing moisture. Ceramic and plastic pots can also work if you are very careful with watering.
Size: Choose a pot that is only slightly larger than the succulent’s root ball. Overly large pots can hold too much soil, which stays wet for too long.

Step 4: Watering Wisely – Less is More!

This is where many new succulent owners go wrong. Overwatering is the most common killer of these plants. Succulents store water, so they prefer to dry out completely between waterings. When you water, water deeply until water runs out of the drainage holes, then let the soil dry out thoroughly before watering again.

How to Tell When to Water:

Check the Soil: Stick your finger about an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it feels moist, wait.
Observe the Leaves: Slightly wrinkled or soft leaves can indicate thirst. However, overwatered leaves can also appear soft and plump, so always check the soil first.
Pot Weight: A dry pot will feel significantly lighter than a recently watered one.

Watering Frequency: The frequency will vary greatly depending on your environment (light, temperature, humidity) and the season. In general, you might water every 1-3 weeks. In warmer, brighter months, you’ll water more often than in cooler, darker months. Never let your succulent sit in a saucer full of water.

Step 5: Temperature and Air Circulation

Succulents are quite tolerant of different temperatures, but they generally prefer moderate conditions. Ideal indoor temperatures are typically between 60-80°F (15-27°C). Avoid placing them near drafty windows in winter or directly in front of heating vents, as extreme temperature fluctuations can shock the plant.

Good air circulation is also beneficial. It helps the soil dry out more quickly and can prevent fungal issues. Open windows periodically if possible, or use a small fan on a low setting to keep the air moving gently around your plants. For more information on optimal growing conditions, resources like the UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines for Succulents from the University of California provide valuable insights into plant health and environmental factors.

Step 6: Fertilizer – A Light Touch

Succulents are not heavy feeders. They don’t require frequent fertilization. If you choose to fertilize, do so sparingly during their active growing season, which is typically spring and summer. Use a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer specifically formulated for succulents or cacti, or a general houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength.

Apply fertilizer only once or twice during the growing season. Never fertilize dormant plants (usually in fall and winter) or newly repotted plants. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots and lead to unhealthy growth.

Step 7: Repotting Your Succulents

Succulents don’t need to be repotted very often, usually only every 2-4 years, or when they outgrow their current pot. Signs it’s time include roots growing out of the drainage holes, the plant looking top-heavy, or the soil drying out extremely quickly.

When to Repot: The best time to repot is during the spring or early summer, when the plant is actively growing.

How to Repot:

Gently remove the succulent from its old pot. If it’s stuck, you can tap the sides of the pot or carefully run a knife around the edge.
Inspect the roots. Trim away any dead, mushy, or diseased roots.
Place a small amount of fresh, well-draining succulent mix in the new, slightly larger pot.
Position the succulent in the new pot, ensuring the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim.
Fill in around the roots with more potting mix, pressing gently to remove air pockets.
Wait a few days to a week before watering to allow any damaged roots to heal.

Common Indoor Succulent Care Problems and Solutions

Even with the best intentions, sometimes issues arise. Here are some common problems and how to fix them:

Problem 1: Mushy, Yellow, or Black Leaves

Cause: Overwatering is the usual culprit. The roots are suffocating and rotting. Also, a lack of drainage can cause this.

Solution: Stop watering immediately. If the soil is soggy, repot the plant into dry, well-draining soil. Remove any rotten (mushy or black) roots and leaves. Ensure the pot has drainage holes and that you’re not letting it sit in water. Water only when the soil is completely dry.

Problem 2: Stretched and Leggy Growth (Etiolation)

Cause: The plant is not getting enough light. It’s growing long and thin in an attempt to reach a light source.

Solution: Move the succulent to a brighter location, ideally a south-facing window. While you can’t “un-stretch” existing growth, new growth should be more compact. You can prune off the leggy parts and try to propagate them.

Problem 3: Wilting or Wrinkled Leaves

Cause: This is usually underwatering. The plant is using up its stored water. However, it can also be a sign of root rot where the roots can’t absorb water.

Solution: Check the soil moisture. If it’s dry several inches down, water thoroughly until water drains from the pot. If the soil feels moist but the plant is wilting, you may have root rot, and you’ll need to inspect and potentially repot, as described above.

Problem 4: Pests (Mealybugs, Spider Mites, Aphids)

Cause: Pests can hitchhike on new plants or find their way in from outdoors. They feed on plant sap.

Solution: Isolate the infested plant immediately to prevent spread. For small infestations, you can often dab the pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. For larger infestations, use an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. Follow product instructions carefully and repeat treatments as needed.

Best Succulents for Beginners

Not all succulents are created equal, especially when you’re just starting. Some are more forgiving than others. Here are a few beginner-friendly choices:

Succulent Type	Key Features	Light Needs	Watering Tendencies
Echeveria	Rosette shape, wide variety of colors and forms. Easy to propagate from leaves.	Bright, indirect light (6+ hours daily).	Allow soil to dry completely between waterings.
Sedum (Stonecrop)	Many varieties, some with trailing habits. Very hardy.	Full sun to partial shade.	Drought tolerant, water when soil is dry.
Haworthia	Often have striking patterns or translucent leaf tips. Tolerate lower light better than many others.	Bright, indirect light. Can tolerate some shade.	Water when soil is dry, but more frequently than Echeverias if in lower light.
Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks)	Form dense rosettes that produce offsets (“chicks”). Very cold-hardy.	Full sun to light shade.	Very drought tolerant, water sparingly.
Aloe Vera	Medicinal plant with easy-to-care-for properties.	Bright, indirect light.	Allow soil to dry out completely before watering.

Propagating Succulents: Growing Your Collection

One of the most exciting parts of succulent care is propagation – making more plants from your existing ones! It’s incredibly rewarding and an economical way to expand your collection.

Propagation Methods:

Leaf Cuttings: Gently twist off a healthy leaf from the stem. Let the cut end callous over for a few days (this prevents rot). Place the calloused end onto dry, well-draining soil. Mist lightly every few days until you see roots and a new plantlet forming.
Stem Cuttings: Cut a healthy stem off the main plant. Remove any lower leaves. Let the cut end callous over for several days. Plant the calloused end into dry, well-draining soil. Water sparingly once roots form.
Offsets (Pups): Many succulents, like Sempervivum and Aloe Vera, produce baby plants called offsets or pups around the base of the mother plant. Carefully remove these with a clean knife, ensuring they have some roots attached. Let them callous for a day or two, then plant them in their own small pot with succulent mix.

Propagation is often successful during the active growing season (spring/summer) when plants have more energy to produce new growth.

Benefits of Indoor Gardening with Succulents

Bringing succulents into your home isn’t just about aesthetics; it offers several benefits:

Air Purification: While their effect might be small in a whole home, plants do absorb some toxins from the air.
Stress Reduction: The act of caring for plants can be meditative and calming, reducing stress and improving mood.
Aesthetic Appeal: They instantly liven up a space and add a touch of natural beauty, making any room feel more inviting.
Learning Opportunity: They are fantastic for teaching children about nature, responsibility, and the life cycle of plants.
Sense of Accomplishment: Successfully growing and propagating plants builds confidence and a rewarding sense of achievement.

When to Seek Professional Help

While succulents are resilient, there are times when you might need to consult more specialized resources. If you’re dealing with persistent pest infestations that you can’t control, or if your plant exhibits symptoms you can’t diagnose (like unusual spots or growths), it might be time to seek advice.

Local reputable garden centers can be a great resource. Alternatively, online forums dedicated to succulents or university extension services offer in-depth expertise. For instance, the University of Missouri Extension’s Master Gardener program provides a wealth of horticultural information and can help diagnose complex issues.

Frequently Asked Questions About Indoor Succulent Care

Are succulents hard to care for indoors?

No, succulents are actually quite easy to care for indoors once you understand their basic needs. They require less watering and attention than many other houseplants, making them ideal for busy people or beginner gardeners.

How often should I water my indoor succulents?

Water your succulents only when the soil is completely dry. This might be every 1-3 weeks, depending on light, temperature, and humidity. It’s better to underwater than overwater.

What kind of soil do succulents need?

Succulents need very well-draining soil. Use a commercial succulent or cactus mix, or create your own by mixing regular potting soil with perlite or coarse sand to improve drainage.

Can succulents live in low light conditions?

Most succulents thrive in bright, indirect light. While some, like Haworthia, can tolerate lower light conditions better than others, they will not grow as well or maintain their vibrant colors without adequate light. If you have low light, consider artificial grow lights.

My succulent is turning yellow. What should I do?

Yellow leaves are usually a sign of overwatering. Stop watering immediately and check if the soil is excessively damp. If so, allow it to dry out completely, and consider repotting in fresh, dry, well-d

Pearl Roach

Care for Succulents Indoors: Essential Tips

October 6, 2025 by Pearl Roach

Quick Summary:
Caring for succulents indoors is simple! Provide bright light, well-draining soil, and infrequent watering. Most succulents thrive on neglect, making them perfect for beginners. Follow these essential tips for happy, healthy plants.

Hello fellow green thumbs! Are you enchanted by the unique beauty of succulents but feel a bit intimidated about keeping them happy indoors? You’re not alone! Many beginner gardeners find themselves wondering about the secret to vibrant, thriving succulents that don’t droop or shrivel. It’s a common gardening puzzle, but I promise, it’s easier to solve than you think. With just a few key practices, you can transform your home into a miniature succulent sanctuary. Let’s dive into the simple, step-by-step guide to mastering indoor succulent care. Get ready to grow your confidence and your collection!

Why Succulents Make Wonderful Indoor Plants

Succulents are like the low-maintenance rockstars of the plant world. Their ability to store water in their plump leaves, stems, and roots means they can tolerate periods of drought much better than many other houseplants. This makes them incredibly forgiving for those of us who might occasionally forget to water or tend to overwater (a common beginner’s pitfall!). Beyond their resilience, their diverse shapes, colors, and textures add a fantastic modern and earthy touch to any home decor. From the rosette-forming Echeverias to the trailing String of Pearls, there’s a succulent to fit every style and space.

Understanding Your Succulent’s Basic Needs

At their heart, succulents are desert dwellers. This origin story tells us a lot about what they need to flourish. Think bright, sunny days and well-draining soil that mimics their natural arid environment. They don’t crave constant attention; in fact, too much fuss can sometimes lead to problems. We’ll break down each of these essential elements so you can provide the perfect indoor haven for your leafy friends.

Essential Indoor Succulent Care Tips: A Step-by-Step Approach

1. Light: The Sunny Side Up

This is arguably the most crucial factor for happy succulents indoors. Most succulents need plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. Think windowsill-worthy! A south-facing window is often ideal in the Northern Hemisphere, as it provides the most consistent light throughout the day. If you don’t have a sunny spot, don’t fret! Grow lights are a fantastic solution. They mimic sunlight and can be placed above your plants to ensure they get the light they need. Look for full-spectrum LED grow lights, which are energy-efficient and effective. A good rule of thumb is to provide at least 6 hours of bright light per day. Signs your succulent isn’t getting enough light include stretching (etiolation), where the plant grows long and leggy with widely spaced leaves, and fading or dull colors.

Ideal Placement: South-facing windows are best. East or West-facing windows can also work, especially during cooler months.
Signs of Insufficient Light: Etiolation (stretching), pale leaves, loss of vibrant color, new growth being sparse.
Signs of Too Much Direct Sun (sometimes): Scorched spots on leaves (sunburn), especially if a plant is moved suddenly to intense light.
Grow Light Options: LED grow lights, fluorescent bulbs specifically designed for plants. For more information on understanding light needs, the University of New Hampshire Extension offers excellent guidance on plant lighting.

2. Soil: Drainage is Key

Succulents absolutely despise sitting in soggy soil. This is a fast track to root rot, their number one enemy! Standard potting soil retains too much moisture. You need a gritty, fast-draining mix. You can buy specialized succulent and cactus soil, or you can easily make your own. A simple DIY mix involves combining equal parts potting soil with perlite or coarse sand. The perlite or sand creates air pockets and allows excess water to drain away quickly. When you water, you want the water to run freely through the pot.

How to Create Your Own Succulent Potting Mix:

1 part standard potting soil
1 part perlite (small white volcanic rock pieces) or coarse sand (not play sand, which is too fine)
Optional: A small amount of pumice for even better aeration.

This airy mix ensures that the roots have space to breathe and don’t sit in standing water. It’s a simple change that makes a world of difference for your succulents.

3. Watering: Less is More

This is where most beginners go wrong. Overwatering is far more common and dangerous than underwatering for succulents. The “soak and dry” method is your best friend. Water your succulent thoroughly only when the soil is completely dry. How do you check? You can stick your finger about an inch or two into the soil. If it feels moist, wait. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. When you do water, really soak the soil until water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Then, let it dry out completely before watering again. In winter, succulents often go dormant and require even less water – sometimes only once a month or even less, depending on your climate and home conditions.

Key Watering Principles:

Frequency: Varies greatly based on light, temperature, humidity, and pot size. Summer generally requires more watering than winter.
Method: Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom. Avoid misting succulents from above, as this can encourage rot and fungal issues.
Signs of Underwatering: Wrinkled or shriveling leaves that may feel soft.
Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing leaves, mushy leaves, translucent leaves, stem rot, or a general wilting appearance (this can look similar to underwatering, so check the soil!).

A simple moisture meter can also be a helpful tool for beginners to take the guesswork out of soil moisture levels. You can find reliable ones online or at garden centers.

4. Potting & Drainage: The Foundation of Health

The container your succulent lives in is just as important as its soil. Always choose pots with drainage holes! This is non-negotiable. Terracotta pots are excellent for succulents because they are porous, allowing excess moisture to evaporate more quickly from the soil. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots can hold on to moisture longer, so you’ll need to be even more careful with your watering schedule if you use those. The size of the pot also matters. A pot that’s too large for the plant can hold too much soil, which stays wet for too long. Generally, a pot that is only about 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the plant’s root ball is ideal.

Pot Material	Pros	Cons	Best For
Terracotta (Unglazed Clay)	Highly porous, allows soil to dry out quickly, good airflow to roots.	Can be fragile, dries out very fast (may need more frequent watering in very hot/dry conditions).	Beginners, over-waterers, those in humid climates.
Glazed Ceramic	Aesthetic appeal, retains some moisture.	Less porous than terracotta, holds moisture longer, can lead to overwatering if not careful.	Experienced growers, those with very good watering habits.
Plastic	Lightweight, inexpensive, durable, retains moisture well.	Poor airflow, holds significant moisture, high risk of overwatering.	Only for experienced growers with precise watering control or in very arid environments.

5. Temperature and Airflow: Comfortable Living

Succulents enjoy the same temperature range that most people find comfortable indoors – typically between 60-80°F (15-27°C). They can tolerate cooler temperatures, especially during their winter dormancy period (down to about 40°F or 4-5°C for many varieties), but avoid prolonged exposure to freezing conditions. Good airflow is also beneficial. Stagnant air can encourage fungal diseases. If your home is very stuffy, consider using a small fan on a low setting for a few hours a day, especially in humid conditions. Don’t place them directly next to drafty windows or heating/cooling vents, as temperature fluctuations can stress them.

6. Fertilizing: A Little Goes a Long Way

Succulents are not heavy feeders. Over-fertilizing can actually harm them. During their active growing season (spring and summer), you can feed them a diluted succulent or cactus fertilizer. Use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium – a 2-7-7 or similar ratio is often recommended. Dilute it to half or even quarter strength and apply only once or twice during the entire growing season. Never fertilize a dry plant; water it first, and fertilize when the soil is slightly damp. Most importantly, do not fertilize during their dormant period (fall and winter).

7. Pest Patrol: Be Vigilant

While generally hardy, indoor succulents can occasionally attract pests like mealybugs or spider mites. These tiny critters love to hide in the crevices of leaves and near the base of the plant. Regularly inspect your plants, especially the undersides of leaves and where leaves meet the stem. If you spot pests, act quickly!

Mealybugs: Look like small, white, cottony masses.
Spider Mites: Tiny, almost invisible dots that create fine webbing.

Treatment:
The simplest treatment is to dab affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol). For more widespread infestations, you can use insecticidal soap or neem oil as directed on the product packaging. Ensure good airflow and avoid overwatering, as stressed plants are more susceptible to pests.

8. Repotting: Giving Them Room to Grow

Succulents don’t need to be repotted very often. They actually prefer to be a little root-bound. Typically, you’ll only need to repot them every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, or when the plant has significantly outgrown its pot. The best time to repot is in the spring, at the beginning of their active growing season. When repotting:

Gently remove the succulent from its old pot.
Brush off excess old soil, being careful not to damage the roots.
Inspect the roots for any signs of rot (mushy, dark roots) and trim them away if found.
Place the succulent in its new pot with fresh, well-draining succulent mix.
Wait a few days to a week before watering after repotting to allow any disturbed rootlets to heal.

For more in-depth information on plant repotting, resources like the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) provide excellent, detailed guides.

Troubleshooting Common Succulent Problems

Even with the best intentions, you might encounter a few bumps in the road. Here are some common issues and how to fix them:

Problem A: Leaves Turning Yellow or Mushy

Cause: Almost always overwatering. The roots are drowning and rotting.

Solution: Stop watering immediately. Allow the soil to dry out completely. If the rot is severe (you can see it on the stem), you may need to remove the plant, trim away all rotten parts, let the cuttings callus over (dry out for a few days), and then repot them in dry, fresh succulent mix. For less severe cases, simply let the soil dry out thoroughly between waterings.

Problem B: Leaves Shriveling and Wrinkling

Cause: Usually underwatering, or sometimes root rot preventing water uptake. It can also happen if the soil is too compacted. Always check the soil moisture first.

Solution: If the soil is bone dry, water thoroughly using the soak and dry method. If the soil is moist but the leaves are still wrinkling, it points to root rot. Follow the solution for mushy leaves above.

Problem C: Plant Stretching (Etiolation)

Cause: Insufficient light. The plant is reaching desperately for more light.

Solution: Move the succulent to a brighter location. If the stretching is severe, you can often propagate new, compact growth from the stretched stem by cutting off the top, letting it callus, and replanting it. The etiolated stem can sometimes be propagated as well, or you can leave it as a quirky, stretched specimen. For more on propagation, the Gardening Know How website has great resources.

Problem D: Brown or Crispy Leaf Tips

Cause: Can be a sign of underwatering, low humidity, or sometimes mineral buildup from tap water.

Solution: Ensure consistent watering with the soak and dry method. If you use tap water, consider switching to distilled or filtered water for a while. Brown tips are often permanent, so focus on preventing new ones from forming by providing consistent care.

Popular Beginner-Friendly Succulents

Not all succulents are created equal when it comes to ease of care, especially for beginners. Here are a few reliable choices that are generally forgiving:

Echeveria: Known for their beautiful rosette shapes and variety of colors. They love sun and need well-draining soil.
Sedum (Stonecrop): Many varieties, including the popular ‘Burro’s Tail’ (Donkey’s Tail) and upright types. They are generally very hardy.
Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks): Extremely cold-hardy and can even tolerate outdoor conditions in many climates. They produce offsets (chicks) around the mother plant (hen).
Haworthia: These often have striking patterns and textures, and many can tolerate lower light conditions better than other succulents, making them great for less sunny spots.
Aloe Vera: Famous for its medicinal properties, Aloe Vera is a succulent that’s relatively easy to care for and quite resilient.
Crassula (Jade Plant): A classic houseplant known for its thick, woody stems and fleshy leaves. They are quite tolerant and can live for a very long time.

When to Fertilize and What to Use

As mentioned earlier, succulents don’t need much feeding. Think of it as an occasional treat rather than daily sustenance. Here’s a quick recap:

When to Fertilize	Frequency	Type of Fertilizer	Dilution
During Active Growth (Spring & Summer)	Once or twice per season	Low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus/potassium (e.g., 2-7-7 or 10-10-10 for cacti/succulents)	Half or quarter strength of what’s recommended on the package.
Dormant Period (Fall & Winter)	Never	N/A	N/A

It’s always better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize. If you’re unsure, skip a feeding. Your succulents will thank you for it!

FAQ: Your Succulent Questions Answered

Q1: Can I plant succulents in regular potting soil?

A1: No, regular potting soil holds too much moisture. You need a gritty, fast-draining mix made for succulents and cacti or a DIY blend of potting soil with perlite or sand. Drainage is crucial to prevent root rot.

Q2: How often should I water my indoor succulents?

A2: Water only when the soil is completely dry. This could be anywhere from once a week to once a month, depending on light, temperature, humidity, and pot size. Stick your finger into the soil to check moisture levels.

Q3: My succulent is stretching and looks leggy. What’s wrong?

A3: This stretching (etiolation) means your succulent isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter location, ideally a south-facing window or under a grow light. You can often propagate new, compact growth from the leggy stem.

Q4: Do succulents need a lot of sunlight?

A4: Yes, most succulents thrive in bright, indirect