Looking for budget-friendly ways to add greenery and style to your outdoor space? DIY cheap large planters are achievable! This guide provides simple, affordable methods to create beautiful, oversized containers that will elevate your garden, patio, or balcony without breaking the bank, perfect for beginner gardeners.
Hello green thumbs! Pearl Roach here, your friendly guide from EcoPatchy. Do you dream of a lush outdoor oasis brimming with vibrant flowers, bountiful veggies, or fragrant herbs, but feel overwhelmed by the sticker shock of large planters? You’re not alone! Many of us admire those magazine-worthy gardens, only to find that big, beautiful pots come with a big, beautiful price tag. It can feel disheartening, especially when you’re just starting out and want to make a big impact without a big investment.
But here’s a little garden secret: stunning, spacious planters don’t have to cost a fortune. With a bit of creativity and a few simple materials, you can craft your own DIY cheap large planters that perfectly suit your style and your budget. We’ll walk through everything step-by-step, turning what seems like a daunting task into a fun, rewarding project. Get ready to transform your outdoor living areas into green sanctuaries!
Why DIY Large Planters Are a Gardener’s Best Friend
Large planters offer a fantastic way to add instant drama and architectural interest to any outdoor space. They provide ample room for plants to grow, which means healthier roots, more vibrant blooms, and even better harvests for edibles. Plus, a few well-placed large containers can define spaces, create privacy screens, or anchor a garden design. The problem is, buying ready-made large planters can drain your gardening budget faster than a leaky watering can!
That’s where the magic of DIY comes in. By crafting your own, you have complete control over the size, shape, and aesthetic. You can repurpose materials, use affordable basics, and personalize your creations to perfectly match your outdoor decor. It’s an eco-friendly approach that often uses reclaimed items, giving them a new lease on life. Ready to dive in and create some amazing, budget-friendly planters?
The Beauty of Budget-Friendly Big Pots
Large planters can be the stars of your outdoor show. They allow for bigger root systems, meaning happier plants and less frequent watering. This is especially true for vegetables and larger shrubs. They also create a more significant visual impact, making a small patio feel like a grand garden room or a sprawling lawn look more defined. The benefits include:
- Ample Root Space: Essential for robust plant growth, especially for larger species and vegetables.
- Reduced Watering Frequency: Larger soil volume holds moisture longer, making plant care easier.
- Visual Impact: Creates a statement and can define areas within your garden or patio.
- Cost Savings: Significantly cheaper than buying comparable pre-made large planters.
- Customization: Design to fit your specific style, dimensions, and plant needs.
- Sustainability: Often incorporates upcycled or reclaimed materials, reducing waste.
Essential Tools and Materials for Your DIY Planter Project
Don’t let a long list scare you! Many of these are common household items or can be picked up affordably. The exact tools and materials will vary slightly depending on the specific planter style you choose, but this is a good general overview. Remember, the goal is to create something beautiful and functional on a budget!
Basic Tools You’ll Likely Need:
- Measuring Tape: For precise cuts and assembly.
- Saw: A hand saw works for many projects; a circular saw or miter saw makes it faster and easier for wood.
- Drill with Drill Bits: Essential for making drainage holes and attaching components.
- Screwdriver or Drill Bits: To drive screws.
- Screws or Nails: Weather-resistant options are best.
- Sandpaper: For smoothing rough edges, especially on wood.
- Work Gloves: To protect your hands.
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting or drilling.
- Level: To ensure your planter is stable.
- Paintbrushes or Rollers: If you plan to paint or seal your planter.
Common Materials for DIY Cheap Large Planters:
- Wood: Pallet wood (ensure it’s heat-treated, not chemically treated – look for the ‘HT’ stamp), fence pickets, scrap lumber from home improvement stores.
- Concrete Blocks/Cinder Blocks: Inexpensive, durable, and easy to stack.
- Plastic Totes/Buckets: Large, food-grade plastic containers can be transformed.
- Old Tires: A classic upcycling option, though be mindful of potential chemical leaching if growing edibles.
- Galvanized Metal Tubs/Stock Tanks: Often available second-hand or affordably at farm supply stores.
- Fabric Grow Bags: While often purchased, you can sometimes find large, inexpensive ones or make your own from durable landscape fabric.
- Hardware: Screws, nails, hinges (if making a lid), exterior-grade wood glue.
- Finishing Supplies: Exterior paint, stain, sealant (eco-friendly options available!), landscape fabric for lining.
DIY Planter Idea 1: The Rustic Wooden Crate Planter
This is a classic for a reason! Wooden crates offer a charming, rustic look and are surprisingly easy to assemble from readily available lumber. They are perfect for a cottage garden feel or adding warmth to a modern patio.
Materials:
- Wood planks (e.g., pallet wood, fence pickets, or 1×6 lumber).
- Wood screws (exterior grade).
- Wood glue (exterior grade).
- Sandpaper.
- Optional: Wood stain or sealant.
- Optional: Heavy-duty landscape fabric or plastic sheeting (for lining).
Tools:
- Saw
- Drill with drill bits and screwdriver bit
- Measuring tape
- Sandpaper
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Cut Your Wood: Determine the desired dimensions of your planter. For a simple rectangular planter, you’ll need four sides and a base. For example, to make a planter about 2 feet long, 1 foot wide, and 1 foot deep, you’d cut:
- Two pieces for the long sides (e.g., 24 inches).
- Two pieces for the short sides (e.g., 10 inches – this will be the width of the boards minus two board thicknesses if you want them to butt against the long sides).
- Four to six pieces for the base, cut to the width of your planter (e.g., 10 inches).
- Assemble the Sides: Lay out two side pieces (one long and one short) to form a corner. Apply exterior wood glue along the edge of the short piece where it will meet the long piece. Then, pre-drill pilot holes through the long piece into the short piece to prevent splitting. Secure with wood screws. Repeat this process to form a complete rectangle by attaching all four sides. You can stagger the lengths of the wood for a more rustic, “planked” look instead of precise cuts.
- Attach the Base: Once the sides are assembled, lay the rectangle on one open side. Position the base planks across the bottom, leaving a small gap between them for drainage if you aren’t lining it. Apply glue to the bottom edges of the side walls and screw the base planks into place, pre-drilling pilot holes.
- Add Drainage (If Not Lining): If your base planks are close together, you may want to drill a few larger holes through the base before adding soil to ensure proper drainage.
- Sand and Finish: Smooth any rough edges with sandpaper. If desired, apply an exterior-grade wood stain or sealant to protect the wood from the elements and enhance its appearance. Allow it to dry completely.
- Line the Planter (Optional but Recommended): For longevity, especially if using untreated wood or if you want to protect the wood from constant moisture, line the inside with heavy-duty landscape fabric or plastic sheeting. Staple it in place, making sure to punch drainage holes through the liner that align with your planter’s base drainage.
- Fill and Plant: Your beautiful DIY wooden crate planter is ready! Fill with potting mix and your favorite plants.
Pro Tip: For an even more authentic crate look, use boards of slightly varying thickness or width. Don’t be afraid of gaps between the planks – they add character!
DIY Planter Idea 2: The Sturdy Cinder Block Garden Bed
Cinder blocks are incredibly affordable, durable, and create a modern, industrial look. They’re fantastic for creating larger raised beds or sturdy, deep planters that will last for years.
Materials:
- Cinder blocks (concrete masonry units – CMUs).
- Optional: Rebar or rebar stakes for added stability (especially for tall structures).
- Optional: Landscape fabric or heavy-duty plastic sheeting for lining.
- Optional: Gravel for drainage layer.
Tools:
- Work gloves (essential for handling rough blocks).
- Level.
- Shovel (for leveling the ground).
- Tamper (optional, for compacting the ground).
- Drill with a masonry bit (if installing rebar).
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Choose Your Location and Level the Ground: Select a spot that gets the right amount of sun for your intended plants. Use a shovel to clear the area and ensure the ground is as level as possible. This is crucial for preventing your structure from becoming unstable. A tamper can be helpful here.
- Lay Out the First Course (Layer): Arrange your cinder blocks in your desired shape (rectangle, square, L-shape). Standard cinder blocks are approximately 8 inches x 8 inches x 16 inches. For a simple planter, you might place them end-to-end, creating the perimeter. The holes in the blocks can face up for planting or sideways. For stability, it’s often best to have the longest dimension (16 inches) running along the wall.
- Add a Second Course (If Desired): For deeper planters or more stability, you can add a second layer of blocks. Stagger the blocks so that the joints of the second layer fall in the middle of the blocks in the first layer, much like laying bricks. This is called “running bond” and significantly increases strength.
- Add a Third Course (Optional): You can stack them higher, but ensure stability. For 3-foot high walls or more, consider using rebar driven through the holes and into the ground for maximum stability.
- Ensure Levelness: Use your level to check that each block and each course is level as you build.
- Add Drainage: If planting directly into the holes of the blocks facing up, ensure they are clear. If you’ve built it up as a contained bed, you can add a layer of gravel at the bottom (about 4-6 inches) for excellent drainage before adding your soil.
- Line the Planter (Optional): If you are concerned about chemicals leaching from the concrete or want to prevent soil from washing out through block gaps, line the inside walls and bottom with heavy-duty landscape fabric. Leave the bottom open if you have gravel drainage.
- Fill and Plant: Fill your cinder block planter with a good quality potting mix or garden soil. You can also fill the holes facing up in the blocks with soil and plant small, trailing plants like succulents or herbs in them for a unique look.
Table: Cinder Block Planter Dimensions & Material Estimate (Example: Simple 4ft x 4ft Square, 2 Blocks High)
| Dimension | Estimate | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Length of 1st Course (Perimeter) | 16 ft total | (4 ft/block x 4 blocks) x 2 sides for a double wall, OR approximate 16 blocks for single wall perimeter |
| Length of 2nd Course (Perimeter) | 16 ft total | Staggered, usually requires ~16 blocks if single wall, adjust for corners if double wall. |
| Total Cinder Blocks (approx.) | 32 blocks | For a 2-block high, 4ft x 4ft planter using standard 8x8x16 blocks with staggered joints. |
| Gravel (for drainage, if used) | Approx. 0.5 cubic yards | For a 4-6 inch layer in a 4×4 ft planter. |
| Landscape Fabric (if used) | Approx. 50-60 sq ft | Allows for overlap and lining walls. |
Cost-Saving Tip: Check local classifieds or ask friends if they have unused cinder blocks from old projects. Sometimes you can get them for very little!
DIY Planter Idea 3: The Upcycled Stock Tank or Large Tub
Galvanized stock tanks, large metal tubs, or even old whiskey barrels (ensure they haven’t held toxic substances) can be fantastic, ready-made large planters. Finding them second-hand is key to making this a “cheap” DIY project.
Materials:
- Large galvanized stock tank, metal tub, or repurposable barrel.
- Optional: Cinder blocks or wood scraps to elevate the planter.
- Optional: Exterior paint (metal-friendly if painting metal).
- Optional: Heavy-duty rust-inhibiting primer if painting metal.
Tools:
- Drill with a metal drill bit (a good quality one!).
- Metal file or sandpaper.
- Safety glasses and gloves.
- Paintbrush or roller (if painting).
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Clean Your Container: Thoroughly wash the inside and outside of your tank or tub to remove any dirt, debris, or residues.
- Drill Drainage Holes: This is the most crucial step! Large containers need ample drainage. Use your drill with a metal bit to create as many holes as possible across the bottom. Aim for holes at least 1/2 inch in diameter, spaced every 4-6 inches. Go slowly and let the drill do the work. Wear safety glasses as metal shavings can fly.
- Smooth Edges: Use a metal file or sandpaper to smooth down any sharp edges around the drilled holes to protect yourself and your plants’ roots.
- Elevate the Planter (Highly Recommended): Place your container on top of cinder blocks or sturdy wood scraps. This is vital for airflow underneath, preventing rust on concrete and allowing water to drain freely away from the bottom.
- Paint or Decorate (Optional): If the galvanized finish isn’t your style, you can paint the outside of the tank. For metal, a good quality exterior metal primer is recommended for adhesion and rust prevention before applying your chosen exterior paint.
- Fill and Plant: Fill your beautifully upcycled large planter with good quality potting mix, leaving a few inches at the top. Now, plant away!
Where to Find These Treasures: Check farm supply stores (sometimes they have imperfect or scratch-and-dent models), Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, local salvage yards, or even ask neighbors who might be clearing out old items.
Link to Resource: For more on caring for galvanized metal, check out this guide from the Galvanized Steel Council.
DIY Planter Idea 4: The Simple Fabric Grow Bag
While you can buy fabric grow bags, making your own from durable landscape fabric can be surprisingly cost-effective, especially for multiple large containers.
Materials:
- Heavy-duty, breathable landscape fabric (get a good quality one that won’t degrade quickly in sunlight).
- Heavy-duty thread (UV-resistant if possible).
- Optional: Sturdy webbing or rope for handles.
Tools:
- Sewing machine (a heavy-duty one is best, though a regular one can work with patience).
- Sharp scissors.
- Measuring tape.
- Pins.
- Work gloves.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Determine Size: Decide on the desired diameter and height of your grow bag. A common size might be 18 inches in diameter and 12 inches tall.
- Cut the Fabric:
- For the Sides: Calculate the circumference of your desired circle (Circumference = π x Diameter). Add about 6 inches for seam allowance and overlap. Cut a rectangular piece of fabric this length and the desired height plus about 4 inches for top and bottom hems. For an 18-inch diameter bag, the height is 12 inches, so you’d need a piece roughly (3.14 * 18) + 6 = ~62.5 inches long, and (12 + 4) = 16 inches tall.
- For the Base: Cut a circle with a diameter equal to your desired planter diameter (e.g., 18 inches).
- Create the Bag Body: Fold the long rectangular piece of fabric in half lengthwise, so the right sides are together. Sew along the raw edge to create a cylindrical tube. Use a strong stitch, like a zig-zag stitch if your machine has it, to create a durable seam.
- Attach the Base: Turn the cylinder right-side out. Pin the circular base piece to the bottom opening of the cylinder, raw edges together. Sew them together with a strong stitch, again using a zig-zag if possible to prevent fraying.
- Hem the Top: Fold the top raw edge down about 1 inch, then fold it down again about 2-3 inches to create a sturdy hem. Pin and sew the hem. If adding handles, secure them firmly at this stage by sewing them into the hem on opposite sides.
- Fill and Plant: You’ve made your own grow bag! Fill with lightweight potting mix and get planting. These bags are excellent for root aeration and drainage.
Why Fabric Bags? They promote healthier root systems by preventing root circling and allow for excellent drainage, which means less chance of root rot. They are also lightweight and easy to move.
Choosing the Right Location and Soil
No matter how beautiful your DIY planters are, their success hinges on two key factors: location and soil. Even the most robust planter won’t help a plant thrive if it’s in the wrong spot or planted in poor-quality soil.
Optimizing Your Location:
- Sunlight: Observe your outdoor space throughout the day to understand how much sun different areas get. Most vegetables and flowering plants need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight, while shade-loving plants prefer dappled light or morning sun.
- Wind Exposure: Large planters can act like sails in strong winds, potentially tipping over or drying out plants quickly. Consider placing them in sheltered spots or anchoring them if necessary.
- Water Access: Make sure your chosen location is within reach of a water source for easy watering.
- Drainage: Ensure the area around and under your planter allows for water to drain away. Avoid placing them directly in areas where water collects.
The Importance of Good Soil:
Don’t just fill your large planters with soil from your garden! Garden soil tends to compact too much in containers, hindering drainage and aeration. You need a lightweight, nutrient-rich potting mix. For large planters, you’ll need a lot of it, so buying in bulk can be more economical. Consider creating your own blend for even more savings:
- Base: Good quality potting soil or compost.
- Aeration: Perlite or vermiculite (helps with drainage and aeration).
- Moisture Retention: Coconut coir or peat moss (ensure sustainably sourced options).
- Nutrients: A slow-release organic fertilizer or worm castings.
A good starting ratio might be 50% potting soil, 25% compost, and 25% perlite/coir. Adjust based on your specific plant needs.
External Resource: For an in-depth look at soil composition and why it matters, the University of Minnesota Extension offers excellent, research-backed advice on container gardening, including soil. Read about their recommendations for container mixes.
Essential Care for Your Large DIY Planters
Once your beautiful, budget-friendly large planters are planted, they’ll need a little ongoing care to keep your plants flourishing. Because they are often exposed to more direct sun and wind, and hold a significant volume of soil, they have some unique care requirements.
Watering Wisdom:
- Check Soil Moisture Regularly: Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. Large planters can dry out surprisingly quickly, especially in hot weather.
- Water Deeply: When you water, water until you see it drain from the bottom holes. This encourages roots to grow deep.
- Water the Soil, Not the Leaves: Try to avoid wetting plant leaves, as this can encourage fungal diseases.
- Morning Watering is Best: This allows plants to hydrate before the heat of the day and any excess moisture to evaporate.
Feeding Your Plants:
The nutrients in your potting mix will eventually be depleted, especially with regular watering. You’ll need to replenish them.
- Fertilizer: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the growing season, or incorporate a slow-release granular fertilizer into the soil when planting. Follow product instructions carefully.
- Composting: Top-dressing your planters with a layer of compost once or twice a year can provide a slow, steady release of nutrients.
Maintenance and Longevity:
- Inspect Regularly: Check your planters for any signs of wear and tear, loose screws, or damage. Make repairs as needed to prolong their life.
- Winter Care: If you live in an area with harsh winters, consider what care your specific planter material needs. Wooden planters may benefit from being covered or stored, while concrete and metal are generally frost-resistant.
- Repotting: Even large plants may eventually outgrow their planters or deplete the soil to the point where repotting with fresh soil is necessary. This is usually only needed every 2-3 years.
FAQ: Your Beginner Questions Answered
Q1: Are DIY cheap large planters really as durable as store-bought ones?
A1: They can be! Cinder block and metal stock tank planters are incredibly durable and can last for decades. Wooden planters, if built with good quality wood and sealed properly, can last 5-10 years or more. The durability often depends on the materials you choose and how well you care for them.
Q2: What is the cheapest material to use for DIY large planters?
A2: Cinder blocks are often the most economical for creating very large, sturdy planters. For smaller “large” planters, repurposing large plastic totes or buckets (with good drainage drilled) is usually the cheapest route. Using free salvaged wood like pallet wood (HT marked only) is also very cost-effective.
Q3: Do I need to line my DIY planters?
A3: It’s often recommended but not always strictly necessary. Lining with landscape fabric or plastic sheeting (with drainage holes!) helps to protect the planter material itself from constant moisture, extending its lifespan. It’s especially helpful for wooden planters and can prevent soil from washing out from between gaps in certain DIY designs.
Q4: How deep should a planter be for vegetables?
A4: For most vegetables, a depth of at least 8-12 inches is recommended. Root vegetables like carrots or potatoes will require deeper containers, ideally 12-18 inches. Large planters easily meet these requirements!
Q5: What’s the best way to ensure good drainage in a DIY planter?
A5: The most important step is to drill plenty of appropriately sized holes in the bottom. For solid-bottomed planters (like wooden ones), aim for holes at least 1/2 inch in diameter, spaced every 4-6 inches. For cinder blocks, ensure the holes face up or sideways and are clear. Adding a layer of gravel at the very bottom before soil can also improve drainage, though it’s often debated if it’s essential if you have good drainage holes.
Q6: Can I use old tires for planters, especially for edibles?
A6: While tires are a very cheap and readily available material for planters, there is some concern about chemicals leaching from the rubber into the soil, especially when heated by the sun. It’s generally recommended to use them for ornamental plants rather than edible crops. If you do use them for edibles, consider lining them thoroughly with heavy plastic sheeting.
Conclusion: Grow Big on a Small Budget!
There you have it! Creating your own cheap large planters is not only achievable but incredibly rewarding. You’ve learned that with a little resourcefulness, a few basic tools, and some affordable materials, you can craft beautiful and functional oversized containers that will transform your outdoor spaces. Whether you choose the rustic charm of wood, the modern strength of cinder blocks, the upcycled elegance of a stock tank, or the practicality of a fabric grow bag, you’re taking a wonderful step towards a greener, more personalized garden.
Remember, gardening is a journey of growth, and that includes your approach to creating its foundation. Don’t be afraid to experiment, adapt these ideas to your own style, and most importantly, have fun with it! Get out there, get your hands dirty (or at least a little dusty!), and start building the outdoor oasis you’ve been dreaming of. Happy planting!