Learn how to care for orchids indoors with these proven tips! Get ready to enjoy stunning blooms year-round by understanding light, watering, potting, and feeding essentials. This guide makes orchid care simple for everyone.

Welcome, fellow plant lovers! Orchids are often seen as exotic and delicate, leading many to believe they’re too tricky to care for indoors. It’s a common frustration to see those beautiful blooms fade or a plant struggle, making you think orchids are just not for your home. But guess what? With a little know-how, you can absolutely keep these gorgeous flowers thriving and reblooming!

This guide is designed with absolute beginners in mind. We’ll break down exactly what your orchid needs, step by step, making it easy to understand and even easier to do. Forget complex jargon; we’re talking simple, practical advice that guarantees success. Get ready to transform your orchid from a mystery plant into your proudest indoor garden companion. Let’s dive in and discover the secrets to happy, healthy orchids!

Understanding Your Orchid: The Basics

Orchids are a vast and diverse family of plants, with over 25,000 known species! For most indoor growers, the most common types are Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), Cattleya, Dendrobium, and Cymbidium. While they might look complicated, their basic needs are quite straightforward. They love warmth, good air circulation, and specific conditions that mimic their natural tropical or subtropical homes.

Think of it this way: your goal is to create a mini-environment that makes your orchid feel right at home, even inside your living room. By understanding a few key elements – light, water, and their unique potting mix – you’ll be well on your way to orchid-growing success.

Orchid Light Needs: Finding the Sweet Spot

Light is arguably the most crucial factor for a blooming orchid. Too much and their leaves will scorch; too little and they won’t have the energy to produce beautiful flowers. Most common indoor orchids, especially Phalaenopsis, prefer bright, indirect light.

The Ideal Spot: Imagine dappled sunlight filtering through a canopy of trees. That’s the kind of light orchids crave. A spot near an east-facing window is often perfect, as it provides gentle morning sun. A south or west-facing window can also work, but you’ll need to provide some light filtration, like a sheer curtain, to prevent scorching.
What to Watch For:
Leaf Color: Healthy orchid leaves are a medium green.
Too Much Light: Leaves turn yellowish or even get brown, crispy spots. This is sunburn!
Too Little Light: Leaves turn a very dark green and the plant may not bloom.
Artificial Light: If natural light is scarce, don’t despair! Full-spectrum LED grow lights can be a fantastic alternative, especially during darker winter months. Position them a comfortable distance above the plant and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for duration.

Testing Light Levels

A simple test can help you gauge if your orchid is in the right light. On a bright sunny day, hold your hand about 12 inches above the orchid’s leaves.
If you see a sharp, well-defined shadow, the light is likely too intense.
If you can barely see a shadow or no shadow at all, it’s probably too dim.
A soft, fuzzy shadow indicates a good balance.

How Often? This isn’t a rigid schedule! It depends on your climate, the type of pot, the potting mix, and the size of your plant. A good rule of thumb for Phalaenopsis is to water about once every 7-10 days. Always check the potting mix first!
How to Check:
Finger Test: Stick your finger about an inch into the potting mix. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Pot Weight: Lift the pot. A dry pot is significantly lighter than a recently watered one.
Root Color (for clear pots): Healthy orchid roots in clear pots are bright green or silvery-white when dry, and turn a vibrant green when watered. If you see many silvery roots, it’s likely time for water.

Watering Technique

When it’s time to water, don’t just sprinkle a little.

1. Water Thoroughly: Take your orchid to the sink and run lukewarm water through the potting mix for about 15-20 seconds. Let the water drain completely.
2. Avoid the Crown: Try not to let water sit in the crown of the plant (where the leaves meet the stem), as this can cause rot. If you do get water there, gently blot it dry with a paper towel.
3. Drainage is Key: Ensure the pot has plenty of drainage holes. Never let the pot sit in a saucer full of water.

Water Type Matters

Orchids are sensitive to the chemicals found in tap water, like chlorine and fluoride. If your tap water is heavily treated, consider using:
Distilled Water: Readily available at grocery stores.
Rainwater: Collect it yourself if possible.
Filtered Water: A good quality water filter can remove impurities.

The Right Mix: Orchid potting mixes are highly porous and airy. They typically contain ingredients like:
Fir bark
Sphagnum moss
Perlite
Horticultural charcoal
You can buy pre-made orchid mixes at garden centers.
Choosing a Pot:
Clear Plastic Pots: These are excellent for beginners because they allow you to easily monitor root health and moisture levels. They usually have lots of side holes for aeration.
Terracotta Pots: Good for breathability, but they can dry out quickly and may wick moisture away from the roots, which isn’t ideal for some orchids.
Specialty Orchid Pots: Pots with extra ventilation slots near the bottom are also a great choice.
When to Repot: Orchids don’t need frequent repotting. Generally, repotting is recommended every 1-3 years, or when the potting mix has broken down (it looks mushy and holds too much water) or the roots have completely outgrown the pot. The best time to repot is usually after the orchid has finished blooming.

Type of Fertilizer: Look for a fertilizer specifically formulated for orchids, often labeled with an “N-P-K” ratio (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) like 20-20-20 or a bloom booster formula.
Dilution is Crucial: Always dilute the fertilizer more than the package instructions suggest, especially for regular feeding. A common recommendation is to use 1/4 or 1/2 strength.
Frequency: Fertilize your orchid about once a month during its active growing period. You can reduce or stop fertilizing during the winter months or when the plant is resting.
“Weakly, Weekly”: Some growers find success with feeding a very diluted solution (1/4 strength) every week or two, alternating with plain water. This provides a steady, gentle supply of nutrients.
Water First: Always water your orchid with plain water before fertilizing. Applying fertilizer to dry roots can cause damage.

Sample Feeding Schedule

Here’s a simple way to think about it:

1. Water: Water your orchid normally.
2. Fertilize (Monthly): The next watering, use a diluted orchid fertilizer (1/4 to 1/2 strength).
3. Rest: The following watering, use plain water again.
4. Repeat: Continue this cycle.

Temperature and Humidity for Orchids

Orchids thrive in conditions that mimic their humid, tropical origins. While most common orchids are quite adaptable to typical home temperatures, a few environmental considerations can make a big difference.

Temperature:
Daytime: Most orchids prefer temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C).
Nighttime: A slight drop in temperature at night (around 5-10°F or 3-6°C) can help trigger blooming, especially for Phalaenopsis. Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations.
Humidity: This is where many indoor environments fall short. Orchids appreciate higher humidity than most homes provide.
Ideal Range: 40-70% humidity is generally preferred.
How to Increase Humidity:
1. Pebble Tray: Place the orchid pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it increases humidity around the plant. Make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting directly in the water.
2. Misting: Lightly misting the leaves in the morning can provide a temporary humidity boost. Be careful not to spray the flowers directly or let water sit in the crown.
3. Grouping Plants: Grouping plants together can create a more humid microclimate.
4. Humidifier: Using a small room humidifier near your orchids is an effective way to maintain consistent humidity levels.

Common Orchid Problems and Solutions

Even with the best care, you might encounter a few common issues. Don’t get discouraged! Most problems are easily fixed.

| Problem | Cause | Solution |
| :——————- | :——————————————————– | :————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————– |
| Yellowing Leaves | Too much light, overwatering, underwatering, nutrient issues | Check light levels: move to a shadier spot if leaves are pale/yellow. Check root moisture: adjust watering. Ensure proper fertilizer use (not too much, not too little). |
| Drooping Flowers/Buds | Stress (temperature change, drafts, repotting), low humidity, over/underwatering | Ensure consistent temperature. Avoid drafts from windows or vents. Check watering and humidity levels. For newly purchased orchids, this is often stress from the move. |
| Brown, Crispy Leaf Tips | Low humidity, mineral buildup from tap water, over-fertilizing | Increase humidity. Use distilled, rainwater, or filtered water. Flush the potting mix occasionally with plain water to rinse out excess salts. Fertilize less often or at a weaker concentration. |
| Mushy, Black Roots | Overwatering, poor drainage, root rot | Repot immediately! Trim all affected roots. Use a fresh, airy orchid mix. Ensure proper watering technique (water thoroughly, then let dry out). For more on root rot, check out resources from reputable botanical gardens like The Royal Horticultural Society. |
| No Blooms | Insufficient light, lack of temperature fluctuation, plant stress | Increase light exposure (bright, indirect light). Ensure a nighttime temperature drop (approx. 5-10°F). Avoid repotting or stressing the plant when you want it to bloom. |
| Pests | Mealybugs, spider mites, scale | Inspect your plant regularly. For minor infestations, wipe pests away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap. For more severe cases, consider horticultural oils or specific pest treatments. Isolate infested plants. |

Encouraging Reblooming: The Next Chapter

Once your orchid has finished its stunning display, you might wonder how to get it to bloom again. It’s not magic; it’s about providing the right conditions!

1. The “Rest” Period: After blooming, many orchids benefit from a slight reduction in watering and no fertilizer for a few weeks. This gentle “rest” can help them prepare for new growth.
2. Light is Key: As we discussed, sufficient bright, indirect light is essential for flower bud formation. Ensure your orchid is getting enough light during its active growth period.
3. Temperature Difference: For Phalaenopsis, a consistent nighttime temperature drop of about 10-15°F (5-8°C) for several weeks in the fall can be a significant trigger for flower spikes. Aim for consistent temps between 60-65°F (16-18°C) at night during this period.
4. Healthy Plant: A strong, healthy plant with good root and leaf development is much more likely to bloom than a stressed or weak one. Continue with your consistent watering, appropriate potting medium, and occasional feeding.
5. Pruning Spent Spikes: For Phalaenopsis, once all the flowers have fallen off a spike, you have two options:
Cut it Back: Cut the spike at the base. This allows the plant to focus energy on developing new leaves and roots, which leads to stronger future blooms.
Cut Above a Node: Some growers cut the spike back about midway, just above a “node” (a small bump on the stem). Sometimes, a new side spike will emerge from this node, producing more flowers. This can weaken the plant slightly, so it’s often recommended only for very healthy plants.

Where to Buy Orchids and Supplies

Finding the right orchid and the necessary supplies is easier than you might think!

Orchids:
Local Garden Centers & Nurseries: Often have a good selection and knowledgeable staff.
Home Improvement Stores: Many carry basic orchid varieties, especially Phalaenopsis.
Online Orchid Retailers: A vast selection is available from specialized growers. Look for reputable sites with good reviews.
Florists: Can be a source for beautiful blooming orchids, though they may be more costly.
Supplies (Potting Mix, Pots, Fertilizer):
Garden Centers & Nurseries: Your go-to for specialized orchid mixes and pots.
Online Gardening Stores: Wide variety of orchid-specific products.
* Big Box Retailers: May carry basic orchid fertilizers and pots.

When buying an orchid, look for healthy, firm leaves (not limp or wrinkled) and firm, green roots if you can see them through the pot. Avoid plants with visible pests or signs of disease.

Frequently Asked Questions About Orchid Care

How often should I water my orchid?

Water your orchid when the potting mix is almost dry. For most common indoor orchids like Phalaenopsis, this means checking every 7-10 days. Always feel the mix or lift the pot to gauge dryness, rather than sticking to a strict schedule.

Can orchids survive in low-light conditions?

While orchids can survive in low light, they won’t thrive or bloom well. They need bright, indirect light to produce flowers. If your home is very dark, consider using grow lights.

Do orchids need special soil?

Yes! Orchids are epiphytes and require a special, airy potting mix made from materials like bark, sphagnum moss, and perlite. They cannot grow in regular potting soil.

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Pearl Roach

Quick Summary:
Caring for orchids indoors is simpler than you think! Provide bright, indirect light, water only when the potting mix is dry, use well-draining potting material, and maintain moderate humidity and temperatures. With these basic essentials, your orchid will thrive and bloom beautifully.

Orchids are often seen as exotic and tricky plants, and many beginners shy away from them, thinking they’re too difficult to keep alive. But guess what? With a little know-how, you can absolutely enjoy the stunning beauty of orchids right in your own home. Forget the frustration; we’re going to break down how to care for orchids indoors into simple, manageable steps.

This guide is designed to give you the confidence and tools you need to nurture these gorgeous flowers. We’ll cover everything from where to place them and how often to water, to understanding their unique needs. Get ready to transform your home into a vibrant orchid oasis!

Why Orchids Seem Intimidating (And Why They Aren’t!)

Many people believe orchids are fussy divas of the plant world. This reputation likely comes from their natural, often tropical, habitats which can be hard to replicate indoors. They grow on trees or rocks, not in soil, which is a key difference from many common houseplants. This unique growth habit means they need specific conditions, particularly when it comes to watering and potting media.

However, the most common indoor orchids, like Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), are surprisingly adaptable. Once you understand their basic requirements – which we’ll detail below – you’ll see that their care is about understanding their natural tendencies rather than performing complex rituals. It’s about providing the right environment so they can do what they do best: grow and bloom!

Choosing Your First Indoor Orchid

There are thousands of orchid species, but for beginners, sticking to a few reliable types is the best way to start. These varieties are more forgiving and readily available.

Recommended Orchids for Beginners:

• Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid): These are the most common orchids found in flower shops and grocery stores. They have long-lasting blooms and relatively simple care requirements. They prefer moderate light and temperatures.
• Dendrobium: Many Dendrobium orchids are epiphytic (grow on other plants) and offer a wide array of colors and bloom types. Some varieties are quite hardy and don’t demand constant attention.
• Cattleya: Known for their large, often fragrant blooms, Cattleyas are also popular. While they might need slightly more light than Phalaenopsis, they are still manageable for the patient beginner.
• Oncidium (Dancing Lady): These orchids are recognized by their sprays of smaller, often yellow or brown flowers that resemble dancing figures. They can be quite rewarding and not overly demanding.

When purchasing an orchid, look for a healthy plant. Check for firm, green leaves and a root system that looks plump and healthy (if visible). Avoid plants with yellowing leaves, mushy roots, or signs of pests like tiny white bumps.

Essential Orchid Care: The Non-Negotiables

Caring for orchids indoors involves paying attention to a few key elements. Think of these as the foundation for a happy, healthy orchid.

1. Light: The Sunbeam Sweet Spot

Orchids, especially beginner-friendly types like Phalaenopsis, adore bright, indirect light. This means they love to be near a window, but not in direct, harsh sunlight that can scorch their leaves. An east-facing window is often ideal, providing gentle morning sun, or a shaded west or south-facing window.

• Too Much Light: Leaves turn yellow or develop brown, burnt spots.
• Too Little Light: Leaves turn a very dark green, and the plant may refuse to bloom.

A good rule of thumb is to be able to read a newspaper comfortably in the spot where your orchid sits. If the light is too dim to do that, it’s likely too dim for your orchid to bloom.

2. Watering: The Art of Not Drowning

This is where many people go wrong. Orchids don’t like “wet feet.” Overwatering is the number one killer of indoor orchids. Their roots need to breathe and dry out slightly between waterings. The frequency depends heavily on your environment (humidity, temperature, type of potting mix), so always check the potting medium before watering.

• When to Water: Check the potting mix. If it feels dry to the touch about an inch down, or if the potting material is pulling away from the sides of the pot, it’s time to water. For Phalaenopsis, you can also tell by the roots: green roots mean there’s moisture, while silvery-grey roots mean it’s time to water.
• How to Water: The best method is often called the “soak and drain” method.
  1. Place the orchid pot in a sink or basin.
  2. Run lukewarm water through the potting medium for about 15-20 seconds, allowing it to drain out the bottom.
  3. Let the pot drain completely for at least 15-30 minutes before returning it to its decorative pot or saucer. This ensures no excess water sits around the roots.
• Water Type: Use lukewarm, distilled, or rainwater if possible. Tap water can sometimes contain minerals that build up and harm orchids over time. If you must use tap water, let it sit out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate.

Key Takeaway: When in doubt, wait another day or two to water. It’s much easier to revive an underwatered orchid than an overwatered one.

3. Potting Medium: What They Grow IN, Not ON

Unlike most houseplants, orchids aren’t typically planted in regular potting soil. Their aerial roots need good air circulation. They are usually potted in materials that provide drainage and aeration.

• Common Orchid Potting Mixes:
  • Bark Chips: Fir bark is a very common component, providing excellent drainage and air pockets.
  • Sphagnum Moss: This holds moisture while still allowing air to circulate. It’s often used in mixes or on its own.
  • Perlite & Charcoal: Perlite helps with drainage and aeration, while charcoal can help keep the mix fresh.
  • Tree Fern Fiber: Another traditional and effective medium.

You can buy pre-mixed orchid potting material from garden centers or online. For beginner orchids like Phalaenopsis, a bark-based mix is usually a safe bet.

4. Pot Type: Breathing Room for Roots

The pot your orchid is in is crucial. Traditional pots can sometimes hold too much moisture. Many orchids thrive in clear plastic pots because you can easily monitor the root health and moisture level. They also have plenty of drainage holes at the bottom.

If you prefer a decorative pot, you can place the clear plastic orchid pot inside it. Just remember to remove the inner pot to water and drain it completely. This prevents water from pooling at the bottom of the decorative pot, which can lead to root rot.

5. Temperature: Finding the Comfort Zone

Most common indoor orchids prefer temperatures that are comfortable for us humans. They generally like daytime temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C) and slightly cooler nighttime temperatures, around 55-65°F (13-18°C).

This slight drop in temperature at night can actually encourage blooming. Avoid placing orchids near drafty windows, heating vents, or air conditioning units, as sudden temperature fluctuations can stress the plant.

6. Humidity: A Little Moisture in the Air

Orchids come from humid environments, so they appreciate a bit of extra humidity, especially in dry indoor settings during winter. Misting directly can be detrimental as water sitting on the leaves can encourage fungal diseases.

• Humidity Tray: A simple way to increase humidity is to place the orchid’s pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the plant, but the pot itself isn’t sitting in water. Ensure the bottom of the pot is above the water level to prevent root rot. You can find specific humidity trays or use a regular planter saucer.
• Grouping Plants: Grouping several plants together can also increase local humidity.
• Humidifier: For a more consistent boost, a room humidifier can be very effective, especially in very dry homes.

A relative humidity of 50-70% is ideal. You can monitor this with a simple hygrometer.

7. Fertilizing: A Light Touch for Blooms

Orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, but a weak feeding can encourage healthy growth and blooming. The general recommendation is to use a balanced orchid fertilizer diluted to half or even quarter strength.

• When to Fertilize: Fertilize about once a month during the active growing season (spring and summer). Reduce or stop fertilizing during the fall and winter when growth slows down.
• How to Fertilize: Always water your orchid before fertilizing. Applying fertilizer to dry potting material can burn the roots. After watering, apply the diluted fertilizer solution, letting it drain thoroughly.
• Types of Fertilizer: Look for fertilizers specifically formulated for orchids. They usually have a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) ratio that suits their needs. For instance, a “bloom booster” formula with a higher middle number (phosphorus) might be beneficial when you want to encourage flowering.

The principle here is “weakly, weekly” (or monthly, in this case) – less is more. Over-fertilizing can cause salt buildup, damaging roots and leaves.

Repotting Your Orchid: When and How

Orchids don’t need frequent repotting. You typically only need to repot every 1-3 years, or when the potting medium has broken down and is no longer providing adequate aeration, or when the plant has outgrown its pot.

Signs Your Orchid Needs Repotting:

• The potting medium is decomposing, turning into a mushy, soil-like substance.
• The roots are overflowing the pot, circling excessively, or growing out of the top and sides.
• The plant seems unstable in its pot.

The Repotting Process:

1. Timing: The best time to repot is usually after the orchid has finished blooming and before new growth appears.
2. Gather Supplies: You’ll need a slightly larger pot (if necessary), fresh orchid potting mix (bark, moss, etc.), and sterile cutting tools (like scissors or a knife).
3. Remove from Old Pot: Gently ease the orchid out of its old pot. If it’s stuck, you may need to run a knife around the inside edge or carefully squeeze the plastic pot.
4. Clean the Roots: Gently remove as much of the old potting mix as possible. Inspect the roots. Trim away any dead, mushy, or black roots with your sterile tools. Healthy roots are usually firm and white or green.
5. Place in New Pot: For Phalaenopsis, place the orchid in the new pot so the base of the plant is level with the top of the pot.
6. Add New Mix: Begin adding the fresh potting mix, working it in around the roots. Don’t pack it too tightly; you want air to circulate. Tap the pot gently to help settle the mix.
7. Aftercare: Do not water immediately after repotting. Wait about a week. This allows any small cuts on the roots to callous over, reducing the risk of infection or rot.

Dealing with Common Orchid Pests and Diseases

While generally hardy, orchids can occasionally face pests or diseases. Early detection is key!

Common Pests:

• Mealybugs: Small, white, cottony insects found in leaf axils or on new growth.
• Scale: Small, brown, or tan bumps that attach to stems and leaves.
• Aphids: Tiny, green, black, or brown insects often found on new growth or flower spikes.

Treatment: For minor infestations, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) and dab it directly onto the pests. For more severe cases, you can use an insecticidal soap or neem oil, following product instructions carefully. Ensure good air circulation and avoid excessive humidity, which can encourage some pests.

Common Diseases:

Most orchid diseases are related to overwatering, poor air circulation, or fungal infections.

• Root Rot: Caused by overwatering and poor drainage. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, mushy roots, and a foul smell.
• Leaf Spot: Fungal or bacterial infections causing dark or water-soaked spots on leaves.

Prevention: Proper watering, good air circulation, and using sterile tools for cutting are the best defenses. If you spot signs of disease, isolate the plant, remove affected parts (and the surrounding potting mix if it seems contaminated), and consider a fungicide if necessary. Read up on specific treatments for the observed issue on reputable horticultural sites.

Encouraging Your Orchid to Bloom Again

One of the most rewarding aspects of orchid care is seeing them rebloom! After the initial blooms fade, many people wonder how to get their orchid to flower again.

For Phalaenopsis orchids, the key is usually a temperature drop.

• Temperature Fluctuation: After your orchid finishes blooming, place it in a location where the nighttime temperature drops to around 55-60°F (13-16°C) for a few weeks. This can be achieved by moving it to a cooler room, a shaded north-facing window, or even an unheated but protected porch during cooler months. Avoid freezing temperatures.
• Light and Water: Continue to provide adequate bright, indirect light and water only when needed. A healthy plant with good light and proper watering is more likely to produce a new flower spike.
• Fertilizing for Blooms: Once you see a new flower spike emerging (it looks like a pointed leaf growing from the stem), switch to a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio) to encourage strong flower development.

Patience is a virtue when it comes to orchid blooms. It might take several months to see a new spike, and even longer for the buds to open.

Understanding Orchid Blooms: A Spectacle of Nature

Orchid blooms are truly remarkable. Their intricate shapes and vibrant colors have captivated people for centuries. The inflorescence, or flower spike, can last for weeks or even months, depending on the species and care it receives. Many orchids have a monopodial growth habit, meaning they grow from a single stem and produce new leaves and flower spikes from the top. Others are sympodial, growing from a creeping rhizome and producing new pseudobulbs (swollen stems) from which flower stalks emerge.

Understanding these growth patterns can inform your care. For example, if your orchid is sympodial and you see new pseudobulbs forming, it’s a sign of good health and energy, often preceding flowering. The energy required to produce such stunning displays means they need consistent, albeit not excessive, care.

Environmental Factors: The Microclimate Matters

Your home environment plays a huge role in orchid success. Every home is different, so observe your orchid and adjust care as needed. Factors like air circulation, light intensity through windows, and the dryness of the air can change dramatically from room to room, and even seasonally.

For instance, a bathroom with good natural light and consistent humidity can be an excellent spot for some orchids, while a drafty hallway might be a bad choice. You can learn more about the science behind plant respiration and environmental needs from resources like the Royal Horticultural Society, which provides excellent general plant care principles.

Orchid Care Cheat Sheet

Here’s a quick reference guide to sum it all up for easy viewing.

Care Aspect	Ideal Condition	What to Watch For
Light	Bright, indirect (east-facing window is great)	Yellowing leaves = too much; Dark green leaves = too little
Watering	When potting mix is dry (check roots/medium)	Yellowing/mushy leaves & roots = overwatering; Wilting/crisp leaves = underwatering
Potting Medium	Bark, moss, perlite (aeration & drainage)	Decomposing/mushy medium = needs repotting
Temperature	Day: 65-75°F (18-24°C); Night: 55-65°F (13-18°C)	Drafts, extreme changes = stress
Humidity	50-70% (use humidity tray, grouping, humidifier)	Dry air = wilting; Water sitting on leaves Pearl Roach Leave a Comment Cancel reply Comment Name Email Website Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.