Quick Summary
Growing lavender indoors is achievable! This essential guide offers simple steps for choosing varieties, providing optimal light, watering correctly, and ensuring good drainage to enjoy lavender’s fragrance and beauty inside your home. Perfect for beginners wanting to bring a bit of the outdoors in.
Ever dreamed of filling your home with the calming scent of lavender? It’s totally possible to grow this beautiful herb indoors, even without a sprawling garden! Many people think lavender is strictly an outdoor plant, but with a few smart choices and simple care, you can enjoy its lovely purple blooms and soothing aroma right on your windowsill. Don’t let past plant struggles get you down; this guide is here to help every step of the way.
We’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from picking the right lavender for your space to keeping it happy and healthy. Get ready to transform your home into a fragrant oasis!
Why Grow Lavender Indoors?
Bringing lavender into your home offers a delightful mix of benefits that go beyond just pretty looks. Its wonderful scent is known for its calming properties, potentially helping to reduce stress and improve sleep. Imagine a gentle, natural aroma wafting through your living room or bedroom – pure bliss!
Beyond the scent, lavender adds a touch of natural beauty. Its silvery-green foliage and spikes of purple flowers bring a touch of the Mediterranean right into your home, adding a rustic charm to any decor. Plus, growing your own herbs, even indoors, connects you to nature and provides a rewarding sense of accomplishment. It’s a small step towards a greener, more fragrant living space.
Choosing the Right Lavender for Indoors
Not all lavender varieties are created equal when it comes to indoor growing. Some are much better suited to containers and the more controlled environment of your home. The key is to look for dwarf or compact varieties that won’t quickly outgrow their pots.
Here are some top contenders that tend to do well as indoor plants:
- Munstead Lavender: This is a very popular choice for a reason! Munstead is a compact English lavender that produces abundant, fragrant flower spikes. It’s hardy and relatively forgiving, making it a great starting point for beginners.
- Hidcote Lavender: Another excellent English lavender variety, Hidcote is known for its deep purple flowers and compact growth habit. It’s very fragrant and performs well in pots.
- Lady Light Pink Lavender: If you prefer a softer color palette, this variety offers beautiful pale pink blooms while still maintaining a manageable size for indoor growing.
- Wee Willie Lavender: As the name suggests, this is a super-tiny dwarf variety from the Lavandula stoechas (Spanish) family. Spanish lavenders generally need a bit more care indoors but offer unique ‘bunny ear’ blooms.
When you’re at the nursery or browsing online, look for plants labeled as “dwarf,” “compact,” or specifically recommended for container growing. Smaller is generally better for indoor success.
Essential Care Requirements for Indoor Lavender
Success with indoor lavender hinges on mimicking its natural, sun-drenched, and well-drained Mediterranean habitat as closely as possible. This means paying close attention to light, watering, soil, and air circulation.
1. Light: The Sunbeam Superstar
Lavender absolutely thrives in sunlight. Indoors, this translates to needing the brightest spot you can offer. Your goal is to provide at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
- South-facing windows are usually the best bet, as they offer the most intense light throughout the day.
- West-facing windows can also work well, providing strong afternoon sun.
- East-facing windows will offer morning sun, which might be sufficient for some of the more tolerant varieties, especially if supplemented.
- Be prepared to supplement: If you don’t have a window that gets enough natural light, especially during the darker winter months, you’ll need to invest in a grow light. LED grow lights are energy-efficient and effective. Look for full-spectrum lights that mimic natural sunlight. You can find excellent resources on grow light setup from places like the Royal Horticultural Society, which provides detailed advice on lighting for plants.
Rotate your lavender plant regularly (at least once a week) so all sides get exposure to the light source. This prevents the plant from becoming leggy and leaning towards the window.
2. Watering: Less is Often More
This is arguably the most critical aspect of indoor lavender care, and where many beginners go wrong. Lavender hates soggy roots! Overwatering is the quickest way to kill an indoor lavender plant.
- Allow the soil to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Stick your finger about an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it feels moist, wait a few more days.
- Water deeply when you do, but ensure excess water drains away completely. Never let the pot sit in a tray full of water.
- Frequency: This will vary greatly depending on your home’s humidity, temperature, and the amount of light the plant receives. In winter, you might water only once every 2-3 weeks. In warmer, brighter months, it could be weekly, but always check the soil first.
- Avoid misting: Unlike some tropical plants, lavender doesn’t benefit from misting and it can encourage fungal diseases.
When in doubt, it’s always better to underwater slightly than to overwater.
3. Soil & Drainage: The Foundation for Healthy Roots
Lavender needs a very well-draining soil mix to prevent root rot. Standard potting soil often holds too much moisture. You need to amend it or use a specific blend.
- Create your own mix: Combine equal parts good quality potting soil, perlite, and coarse sand. The perlite and sand improve aeration and drainage significantly.
- Use a cactus or succulent mix: These commercial mixes are formulated for arid-loving plants and typically have excellent drainage. You might still want to add a bit of perlite for extra assurance.
- Potting choice matters: Ensure your pot has drainage holes! Terracotta pots are excellent for lavender as they are porous and help the soil dry out faster than plastic pots.
Good drainage is non-negotiable. If your pot doesn’t have holes, drill some or repot into a container that does.
4. Pot Size: Room to Breathe, But Not Too Much
When you first get your lavender, it might be in a small nursery pot. You’ll want to repot it into something slightly larger, but not excessively so. Lavender actually prefers to be a bit root-bound; its roots need air circulation.
- Choose a pot that is only about 2-4 inches wider than the current root ball.
- Terracotta pots are highly recommended for their breathability.
- Repotting: Repot only when the plant has clearly outgrown its container, typically every 1-2 years. Spring is the best time to repot.
An oversized pot holds too much soil, which stays wet for too long, leading to root rot.
5. Air Circulation & Temperature: Happy Medium
Lavender enjoys fresh air and moderate temperatures. Avoid placing it near drafty vents or heat sources that can dry it out too quickly or cause temperature fluctuations.
- Good airflow helps prevent pest issues and fungal diseases. If your home is particularly stuffy, consider a small fan on a low setting for a few hours a day, especially in humid environments.
- Temperature: Lavender prefers average room temperatures. It can tolerate cooler conditions (even down to 50°F or 10°C), which can be beneficial in encouraging blooms, but avoid prolonged exposure to extreme cold or heat.
6. Fertilizing: Keep it Minimal
Lavender is not a heavy feeder. In fact, over-fertilizing can lead to leggy growth and less fragrant flowers.
- During the growing season (spring and summer), you can feed your lavender plant with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks.
- Use 1/4 to 1/2 strength of the recommended dosage.
- Avoid fertilizing in the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows down.
A light feeding is all that’s needed to support its health.
Pruning Your Indoor Lavender
Pruning is essential for maintaining a bushy, compact plant and encouraging more blooms. It also helps prevent the plant from becoming woody and leggy indoors.
- After flowering: Once the flowers have faded, it’s time for a trim. Cut back the flower stalks (spent blooms) to just above a set of leaves.
- Annual heavy prune: Once a year, typically in early spring before new growth begins, give your lavender a more significant prune. Cut back about one-third of the plant’s height, shaping it and removing any dead or woody stems. Be careful not to cut into old, bare wood if possible, as new growth may not emerge from it.
- Pinching new growth: In the spring and summer, you can pinch back new stem tips to encourage branching and maintain a fuller shape.
Regular light trims will keep your lavender looking its best and encourage more flowers.
Common Pests and Problems
While lavender is generally quite hardy, indoor plants can sometimes attract common houseplant pests or suffer from specific issues:
| Problem | Symptoms | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Root Rot | Yellowing leaves, wilting even when soil is moist, mushy stems, foul smell from soil. | Water less frequently. Ensure excellent drainage. Repot into fresh, well-draining soil, trimming away any rotten roots. Improve air circulation. |
| Spider Mites | Fine webbing on leaves and stems, tiny dots on leaves, stippling (tiny pale spots). | Wipe leaves with a damp cloth. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Increase humidity slightly (but don’t overdo it for lavender). |
| Aphids | Small green, black, or brown bugs clustered on new growth and flower buds. Sticky residue (honeydew). | Blast off with water. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage beneficial insects if possible (though harder indoors). |
| Powdery Mildew | White, powdery coating on leaves and stems. | Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Prune affected parts. Treat with a fungicide or a baking soda spray (1 tsp baking soda, 1/2 tsp mild liquid soap in 1 quart of water). |
| Leggy Growth | Long, weak stems with sparse leaves; plant leaning heavily towards light. | Increase light exposure (consider grow lights). Prune regularly to encourage bushier growth. Ensure adequate airflow. |
| No Flowers | Plant is healthy but not blooming. | Ensure sufficient light (6-8 hours direct sun). Prune at the right times. Avoid over-fertilizing. Ensure it’s getting a slightly cooler period to trigger blooming, if possible. |
Catching any issues early is key to keeping your lavender thriving.
Harvesting Your Indoor Lavender
Harvesting your indoor lavender is a treat! Not only do you get to enjoy the fragrant blooms, but you can also use them for various purposes.
- When to harvest: The best time to harvest is when the buds are plump and just beginning to open, but before the flowers fully open. This is when their fragrance and essential oils are strongest.
- How to harvest: Use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut the flowering stems. Cut them long enough to bundle or use as desired. It’s best to harvest in the morning after the dew has dried.
- Drying for later use: To dry lavender, tie small bundles of stems together with twine and hang them upside down in a cool, dark, dry, and well-ventilated place. This could be a closet or a spare room. It typically takes 1-2 weeks for them to dry completely. Once dry, you can strip the flowers from the stems for use in sachets, potpourri, or culinary creations.
Enjoy the fruits of your labor – a fragrant, beautiful herb grown right by you!
Troubleshooting Common Indoor Lavender Woes
Even with the best intentions, indoor gardening can throw a few curveballs. Here’s how to handle some of the most common frustrations:
My Lavender is Turning Yellow!
Yellowing leaves on indoor lavender are almost always a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Lavender needs to dry out between waterings, and its roots need air. Check your watering schedule and ensure the pot has plenty of drainage holes. If the soil feels constantly soggy, it’s time to repot into drier soil and potentially trim away any mushy, dark roots.
My Lavender is Wilting, But the Soil is Wet!
This is the classic symptom of root rot. The roots have been sitting in water for too long and have started to decay. They can no longer absorb water effectively, causing the plant to wilt even though the soil is wet. The solution is to immediately repot into fresh, well-draining soil, remove any damaged roots, and adjust your watering habits drastically. Aim to let the soil dry out significantly between waterings.
My Lavender is Leggy and Drooping
Leggy growth means your lavender isn’t getting enough light. It’s stretching out trying to find more! Move it to the sunniest windowsill you have, or invest in a grow light. Regular pruning will also encourage bushier growth and can help manage leggy stems by promoting new side shoots. Pinching off the very tips of new growth can also encourage a more compact form.
Why Aren’t My Lavender Flowers Blooming?
Several factors can contribute to a lack of blooms. The most common is insufficient light – lavender needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. Over-fertilizing can also promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Ensure you are watering correctly and that the plant is not stressed by extreme temperatures or inconsistent watering. For some varieties, a cooler period can actually encourage blooming, so if your home is consistently warm year-round, this might be a factor. Also, make sure you aren’t pruning too heavily too late in the season, as this can remove potential flower buds.
My Lavender Has a Funny Smell
A foul, rotten smell emanating from the soil is a clear indicator of root rot, often caused by overwatering and poor drainage. If you notice this smell, act quickly: unpot the plant, inspect the roots, trim away any black, mushy roots, and repot it in fresh, well-draining soil. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes and adjust your watering routine to allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is lavender hard to grow indoors?
Lavender can be a bit tricky indoors because it requires a lot of bright light and excellent drainage, which aren’t always abundant in typical homes. However, with the right variety, location, and careful watering, it’s definitely achievable for beginners!
What is the best type of lavender for indoors?
Compact varieties like ‘Munstead’ and ‘Hidcote’ (English lavenders) are generally the best choices. They are more forgiving and do well in containers. Shorter, dwarf varieties are always a good bet.
How much light does indoor lavender need?
Lavender needs as much direct sunlight as possible – aim for at least 6-8 hours per day. A sunny south-facing windowsill is ideal. If you don’t have enough natural light, consider using a grow light.
How often should I water lavender indoors?
This is crucial: let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Stick your finger into the soil; if it feels dry about an inch down, it’s time to water. Overwatering is the most common killer of indoor lavender.
Can I grow lavender in a small apartment?
Yes! As long as you can provide adequate light (a sunny windowsill or a grow light) and use a pot with excellent drainage, lavender can thrive even in a small apartment. Dwarf varieties are perfect for limited spaces.
When should I prune my indoor lavender?
Prune lightly after flowering to remove spent blooms. Give it a more significant prune in early spring before new growth starts to shape the plant and remove any woody stems. Avoid heavy pruning too late in the fall, as the plant needs time to prepare for winter dormancy.
Can I use essential oils from indoor lavender?
